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nothing new there, usually the same with the boilers and if they were fortunate to be registered then the warranty usually falls off in only 2yrs.

PRV's in that instance usually let go at a certain pressure as they are there to protect against excess expansion and they are usually located on the cold feed downstream of the heater, so super hot water isn't normally an issue - TPRV's are the ones that let go at specific high temps and...

OK - that garbage but I can understand their position, as the installer didn't follow a simple process. Would they not even consider getting one of their engineers out to service the cylinder and then (re) instate the warranty, then pass on the cost to the installer? If not then I'd pass that...

+1, pic 3, that's an allan key grub screw in there for sure!

Strictly speaking it should be the chap who installed it is the one to sign but TBH as long as you have a correct certificate now then that's all you want. Now it's time to ensure that the warranty is in place. :ROFLMAO:

Time to replace the stop tap for a new 1/4 lever valve. it's done it's job and is worn now. PTFE tape is a great stop gap and it will work for a bit but it doesn't stand up for long and the gland will just start to leak again when used in the future. Find the outside toby, shut it down and...

Alternatively, use gas PTFE tape, normally 7 wraps. Take the fitting with nothing on the threads and see how far it screws on before reaching the end of the thread. Mark the threads with a pen. Wrapping the male end and using the mark as a guide screw the fitting on until nearly there but the...

How wide is the unit space? Is it tight to 600mm? If there was extra width space then the waste could be run to the left then upwards to create a stand pipe. Normally a full sized freestanding D/W is ~ 600mm deep, so even with it tight to the wall, without any pipes it will be extending 60mm...

Wouldn't see why not, as long as it certified to take the temps that may be released under fault conditions. It does state that it is designed to be used with, amongst other things, water heaters and PRV valves

Ah ok, that's the CDI Conventional (regular boiler) which was in essence the precursor to the CDI Classic range. These boilers, even the later CDI Classics, were never really shipped with a menu per sé or designed to be range rated, though as suggested they do modulate. That being said if...

What is the GC number off the sticker on the front, as I was under the impression that the old CDI regulars couldn't be range rated.

+1, that's not really corrosion. The large number of heat cycles and the amount of time that it has been in service, then the plastic has slowly broken down. It is rare but I have seen it a couple of times before. It's almost like the same process that PP/PB goes through when outside and UV...

No - if the pressure is the system is stable then it's nothing to do with the boiler being oversized and the pressure getting too high If there is a rad with 2, always open, lockshield valves then that would be more than enough to act as a bypass ensuring min flow through the boiler on overrun...

Even if it's to be moled, 2 holes need to be dug, one at the output side of the toby and another at the end of the run where the pipe will then enter the property. So the first hole at the mains chamber can be dug down and the pipe exposed, showing the lead. The question already asked though...

0.79" would come in around 19mm, the closest lead pipe OD that would align to would be 0.74"/18.9mm or 5lb - 3/8". In the all mains system you are proposing then that would be the bottleneck to flow. Test the system flow with 2 or 3 outlets running at the same time for a dynamic reading, as...

Nope - Unfortunately that's normally corrosion when it gets to that colour - especially if there was soldering performed as part of the install - if it is green then that is usually down to flux being used with copper system pipework and then the system wasn't flushed properly, the flux can...

If that black colour is indicative of the colour of the system's water then I'd suggest there are potentially bigger issues other than a leaky pipe. If that is the case then the system will need flushed otherwise there could be much more expensive issues further down the line. I'd get someone...

Using a swept bend should help, that and given the length of the vertical, fitting that into the soil first and then connecting to the horizontal may give you a extra few extra mill play, with the flexi in the pipe, to get it all to fit nicely.

Anyone replacing a PCB on a gas appliance should be gas safe registered as it will need to be tested and adjusted to ensure it's firing properly. The Easi Heat Plus C's external case is decorative, the heat engine (Burner/hex/fan/etc) is all enclosed within a separate internal combustion...

As suggested - there may be no need to change the boiler in the short term, unless it's on its last legs or parts aren't available. Would suggest you get a proper mains survey done and if you have >2.5bar and 18L/Min dynamic (must be dynamic to sustain the supply with multiple outlets running)...