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Yes the timber is available. I know it's advisable to get it now to be able to do actual measurements but we're getting the whole of the ground floor screeded at once so trying to keep floor space clear - which is a bigger challenge than it sounds! I'm thinking I should leave openings a little...

Hi, Self build getting to the stage of installing some internal stud walls on block and beam floors. My plan is to lay a single row of concrete blocks then build the stud walls off that so it gives a solid base and allows me to get on with building the walls before the screed is in. Taking one...

Thanks for the concern but I have no intention of doing electrics (or plumbing) myself. Not least for insurance purposes - in that, should anything go wrong, I would need to prove it's been done by a competent person to validate any claim (it will be obvious the wiring is recent). But also...

I did have that thought too, to be honest. But it's generally recommended so...

Thanks! That looks like a good way to D&D (as oppose to random spaced out dots) - when you say predictable dabs - do you mean so ideally you can screw into them? I'm now thinking cables in steel channels and pipes slightly chased in if required. BTW - why use PVC channels over steel? Surely...

Would you not chase the cables/ pipes into the thermalite blocks to reduce the wall build up? Also a little worried about drilling into pipes and cables so want to use conduit. Part of the new building is the kitchen - so I have to consider getting a solid base to fix units, etc. That said...

I have 2x4" already so thinking about using that with a 2" gap from the wall to allow services to go through the roof and behind the perimeter noggin. I'm undecide on whether I want to go for dot & dab plasterboard or for it to be bonded & plastered. The 2" allows for plenty of space for...

It's a single story extension so when you say "one for the ceiling below and one to support the floor" do you mean like this?

Given there are 8" noggin in the centre of joists, do I still need 3/4 sized at the ends? As for setting them in, the insulation is flush with the inner block, will be expansion foamed and then noggin set about 1-2" in front. Is that the right way to do it?

Hi everyone, I am current insulating the eaves of joists and need to add perimeter noggins. The joists are 8inch/ 200mm (plus furring on top) - do I need to add 8inch/ 200mm here or can it be (for example) a 4inch/ 100m noggins here? My understanding is that it's just for additional support...

welcome any thoughts on whether this is the best/ right way to go from here?

Until this week - yes! but I believe this may be because the soil level was sitting way too close to the DPC? Previously only 1-1.5 brick was exposed AND we also had a period with no gutters installed. You can see where those engineering bricks are dirty and to the far right of the photo...

Thanks - so would you suggest just washing the brick back/ cleaning off the mud and filling the gaps as best as possible? I am a bit concerned that I may only be filling the front of the gaps and damp could rise from the bottom where unfilled - is that a valid concern?

Hi all, We’ve had an extension built and due to the weather/ competing proprieties the garden level was left a bit high until now. I noticed a bit of damp on the outside wall so this week we have started to clear the soil and make sure the levels are correct to build back up to a patio. i.e...

We recently had a fibreglass roof laid and the top of the upstanding finish is untidy in places. The roofer suggested the window installer would cut any excess to fit the window. The window company say they would normally deal with it to make window sit right but couldn't say how. I'm worried...

So because of the dimensions of the room the final beam has about a 30mm gap against the wall. (The alternative would have been to install another beam and cut down blocks etc - which seemed like an overkill). The floor build up will have a 150mm PIR insulation before another 60mm odd of...

It's a conversion so no longer a garage. I've opted for engineering bricks just because the opportunity is there. Though some of the beam sits on existing/ previous wall which wasn't engineering brick. But my question was more about the water pooling under the floor - is this normal or should I...

Sorry for the slightly long explanation/ post... We are in the process of upgrading the garage floor as part of a conversion. Having broken/ dug up the concrete slab we found a lot of loose bricks - which I thought was weird (I'll come on to that in a bit) Most of the material (mud/ hardcore/...

We're having a warm deck flat roof on a new & existing extension and the builder has turned up with what looks like any other DPM. He said it's what he uses on the roof as the vapour barrier. A Google search does give this an option when searching for "roof vapour barrier" but also various foil...

Quick update - it wasn't the same brick. Now when we bought the house there were 2 extensions which had previously been done - all with varying shades of colour. So I decided to just go with this rather than faf around trying to find the correct colour as even if I got the exact brick, it would...