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+1 for Pegler. Years ago a no name lever valve (from Toolstation) that I had fitted 2 or 3 years earlier snapped and flooded a customer's home. I went to a proper plumbers' merchant and told them that I wanted Pegler. They tried to convince me to go for the cheaper version. I showed them an...

As above, it might be prudent to improve air flow.

If it timber on timber, caulk should be fine. Smooth it with a wet finger. Assuming that you will be painting, do not use silicone. The paint will not adhere. If it is a painted timber sill that meets uPVC, consider a MS polymer such as CT1. It is almost as a flexible as silicone but can be...

Wouldn't the laminated units be chipboard rather than MDF.

I might check out Ali Express or Temu, etc for mixing nozzles. In the past I have purchased 100 caulking tube nozzles for less than a tenner including postage. Over a month for delivery but I was not in a hurry. Quality wise- no complaints at all. 100 lasts me about 4 years. I use many...

Makita make one which will fit your rectangular plate. https://its.co.uk/pd/makita-d-78885-93-x-185mm-pad-savers-pack-of-2-_makd78885.htm For the delta pad, you could buy a larger one and cut it to size. The front tip of delta pads are more prone to losing their "stickiness/velcro" because...

Nice one, thanks. What do you clean the syringe with?

Mirka make a roll of 93mm wide Abranet which will give the OP 54 sheets for his rectangular base. It will cost about about £50+. A quid a sheet sounds expensive, but the bosch aluminium oxide sheets seem to work out at about 70p each. The OP will then need to factor in the cost of the pad saver...

https://www.screwfix.com/p/rawlplug-r-kem-ii-styrene-free-polyester-resin-300ml/32863 The above is my go to because it is supplied with two nozzles. Individually, some places will charge up to £2 for a spare nozzle As mentioned by @aveatry , the resin in the nozzle soon goes hard. The...

Image #2- it looks like someone ran silicone under the gap between the window and sill. My lay understanding is that the water is supposed to drain down in that cavity (which seems to have been blocked by the silicone). Hopefully @crank39 and @Rodders53 will take the time to advise further...

+1 for corefix. They have an internal collar which is designed to span between the outer plasterboard and internal blockwork, thereby spreading the load. They have a wide collar, when you tighten the screw it will not pull the plasterboard inwards You originally used interset fittings...

Ideally, you would drill into the middle of the brick. Are the bricks visible or plastered over. Photos will help others to advise further.

From memory, ideally, you will use a threaded rod that is 4mm smaller than the original drill size. That will allow 2mm of resin around each side of the threaded bolt. When doing those kind of jobs, I normally order from Orbital Fasteners- £25 ex VAT for free next day delivery- next day is...

The paper/mesh looks like it might be suitable but you will need to purchase a suitably sized Mirka pad saver. It is a sacrificial velcro interface pad that protects the original pad. If you don't use one, the heat transfer will ruin the original pad.

The wedge shape is the frog. I would guess that they are only about 1.5cm tall. I am not a brickie but I have only seen frogs on the top of solid bricks. If they are hollow bricks you can drill a hole in the brick, insert a sleeve, squirt in some resin. You need to to insert the threaded rod...

Links to the possible veneered doors might help. Do you mean flat veneered door without any moldings?

Yeah, I have seen condensate pipes which froze and prevented the combi from working. The "plumber" drilled a small hole higher up to let the warmer water drip out . Short term fix , but it worked.

Hi all. I am currently working for a lovely family. Mr customer questioned the usefulness of the aco drain running around his property. On inspection (today) it seems to not have any drainage points. It is set back from the exterior walls by an inch or so. The paving slabs in some places are...

Apologies for going off topic, but... I love Festool sanders but I have not had much luck with the RTS 400. My first one, I seldom used, So little that it was out of warranty when it first failed. All of a sudden it became extremely slow. I purchased another, again, not used very often. I lent...

Bleach- go for it. There is nothing to lose. You should not need to remove the existing paint, unless it is not adhering. If that is the case, then, yeah remove any lose paint.