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I left it a week to do the second coat. No hollow spots when I tap it. Seems OK. Second coat 5:1 as I said, but 4:1 for lime.

It will be OK if there's rain, it's under the overhang of the thatch. Do you think two days is too soon for the top coat? Don't want to pull it off the wall when the top coat dries.

Rendagrip yesterday, left a day to dry. Scratch coat on this morning. Very little suction. Slow drying. Waited two hours to scratch it. Not sure how much grip it's got on the wall really. Feels strange with so little suction. Will leave it until day after tomorrow to put the top coat on.

Ahh yes, even better. I checked the data sheet and there is no problem over paint. And I can wait until it's dried. Bit cheaper at Sealants & Tools Direct https://www.sealantsandtoolsdirect.co.uk/everbuild-507-rendagrip-extra-grip-render-bonding-coating-rendgp10 I'll still strip as much of the...

Thankyou. I checked the data sheet of Bostik PVA (used to be Rendabond) and it says for outside work to use Bostik SBR, so I just bought some. The first job went OK, but I have more to do with the same paint problem and I really don't want more days with the scabbler, so thankyou.

I should take my specs when I go shopping... the small print, or considering the space taken up by the H&S crap, the tiny print.... when I got the SBR home, it says 'Do not use over painted surfaces'. So I hired a needle scabbler and removed the rest of the paint. Not a job I'd want to do...

Hehe, OK, any particular brand or are they all the same? V8

Block wall, 60s. Sound cement render then old masonry paint. Got a lot of the paint off, but can't get rid of all the mist coat. Need to render over the render, to add 3/4" of thickness. 4:1:1 cement lime sand then 5:1:1 I think I should start with a bonding agent. SBR seems to be a favourite...

Got in touch with Adshead Ratcliffe who make Arbo products. They recommend their Arbomeric MP20 with their 2650 primer. Temporary link to data sheet here file:///C:/Users/Duarte/AppData/Local/Microsoft/Windows/Temporary%20Internet%20Files/Content.IE5/D4Q27LYG/Arbomeric%20MP20.pdf I've used...

Well one would think so. But the joints in the timber frame of our 1620 cottage mostly have no pegs in them, or if they do the pegs are only on the internal face. Our previous house - 1921 - was mock Tudor, they were fixed with clouts knocked into the lime mortar. No holes to drill, no...

Should have mentioned... this is at ground floor level. So fixings/plugs would be very visible, otherwise yes I'd counterbore, fix, and plug. I wonder if Arbo have an adhesive. Flexible is a good point. I'll ask them.

I want to create some bogus half-timbering on the outside of a 60s ground-floor extension. Mock Tudor. Wood, then render between. The wall is hard concrete block with sound cement render, masonry painted. I plan to use cedar because it's stable - not likely to warp and won't rot. About...

Yes, thanks, probably best to assume it might be present. This might of course have something to do with the botcher's reluctance to renew it, hmmm. So all the more reason to lift it out the top, and not through the house. Which brings me back to my original query....

Woodburner, the flue has a 6" stainless flexible with insulating jacket (thatched). The liner is over 40 years old and the jacket is f*** me heavy. The flue is about 25' tall. The liner has pulled out of the top clamp. I say clamp, but here's a little tale will make you laugh or not... At...

OK, so I put away the library steps, go get the stepladder, now I can see over the top of the RCBOs. Yes, it says, something. Down to the garage, get my specs. N out. Well, who knew that. Connect it up, it works wheeeee. Thankyou chaps, the power of the forum. And it's clever, isn't it, how...

Whole CU is RCBOs since 6 months. Fine, no issues So, I put in a new wall light, one 25W incandescent bulb, connect to the RCBO for that room, switch on, the bulb lights for a nano-second then the RCBO trips. Oh, think I. The cable to the switch might have a screw through it. So I bypass the...

Aha, thankyou. Where do I put it/them? In the live feed to the switch, or from the switch to the light, or the live to the PIR?

I wonder if it's RFI from the spark as the contacts break. I see this filter for DC applications, https://www.directindustry.com/prod/act-meters-international-ltd/product-116273-1401185.html perhaps there's one for mains.

Both incandescent. One is 1 x 40W, the other 2 x 40W.

External LED flood with standalone PIR. There are two house light switches, which when switched off, cause the the flood to come on. One switch is about 3ft from the PIR on the same level, the other about 5ft down on the floor below. The flood comes on for its normal timed On period, then shuts...