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I've just mist coated my self skimmed ceiling, which after some serious sanding is looking pretty good. I now have some small dents, pinholes and fine cracks on the board joints. Would a scrape of caulk or filler be better? I think caulk would avoid needing to sand the filler etc?

You can buy it for about £12 a bag and it sets in a few hours????

My guess would be a deck for the top floor - presumably that weird crows nest thing right at the top isn't working for them.

I meant in whatever is below the slab (should be MOT but who knows) just in case a sharp stone ends up next to the pipe . The depth of the slab is fine in concrete or whatever round the pipe. Unless you've found the secret of eternal life I doubt you'll need to replace mdpe.

I get what you're saying, but I don't want to hand control of my heating to an algorithm - unless it can understand that we heat the house on a budget and are prepared to forgo it being nice and toasty for when we get home because we're generally pretty active cooking etc for the first hour so...

Just been on a German Schneider wiser forum and found this reply - it relates to a question about using a heat switch for a towel rail but seems to confirm that you won't get anything out of the hub without a stat.

Thanks, I don't know whether to do this as a temporary measure or just keep that second valve on the old programmer until/if I can work out a way to get it on the hub and accept that I'll never have wireless control of it. I have seen that Drayton do a plug (at a ridiculous £50 of course) that...

Quite possibly - in my original post I said I simply wanted to replicate my existing system but with voice/phone activation. I'm perfectly happy with the way the upstairs works - the reality is that it's pretty well insulated and all it needs is 20 minutes in the morning and half an hour in the...

I've ordered this from Screwfix: They didn't have the 3 channel version in stock and it's silly prices elsewhere. So assuming I'm happy with the way it works I need to address the sub zone in the longer term - presumably by upgrading the 2 channel to a 3 channel - but I really don't want a...

Screwfix seem to have a good deal on the wiser 2 channel that would do hot water and the main heating zone, but no control of my upstairs "sub zone" which doesn't have a thermostat as it's just a second 2 port valve that's switched by the second htg channel on my existing 3 channel programmer...

That's just for me and the wife to play the up and down game with. The important bit's hidden under the stairs - she doesn't even know it exists and just thinks we live in a cold house:

I don't want to replace the TRVs, the existing valves are all new anthracite ones to match the rads. It's just the basic on/off and temperature stuff I'm after. The ground floor is one lounge and one 50m² open plan area that just needs to be maintained at a selected temperature when on.

Can anyone recommend a smartish heating control? I have a heat only boiler with a cylinder and 2 heating zones controlled by 2 x 2 port valves - but the second zone (upstairs) is just slaved off the downstairs zone ( no separate stat, just means while downstairs is on we can switch upstairs on...

I'm fitting a few used radiators to my system and while they seem pretty clean I know there's going to be some rust inside simply because they've been sat empty for a while. I'm looking for a decent magnetic cleaner that will be easy to fit to my horizontal return pipe, and if it exists, -...

Where are you going? Through that lower hole and up? Realistically, given that it's inside and less likely to freeze than the rest of the pipe I'd just tape some lagging round it and backfill the hole below the slab with sand.

There are regs about the pipe being at least 750mm down but not much point as the existing doesn't seem to be. Internally it should be ducted and insulated if it's a suspended floor. Presumably it'll just go in the same route as the old one.

My tyre place cleans them up for a fiver. You need to find your local backstreet place that does taxis.

Nice roll of sellotape. Bought this highly recommended thing the other day and found this ridiculous little spout on the end of it.

Just throw wood, screws, glue and some angle iron at it - they're only made the way they are to use the absolute minimum of materials.

I'd seek a second opinion - he must think the reinforcement will fail in some way when you cut it - but I can't see how? Perhaps leave a short section on a nib in your half. Otherwise a bigger extension.and convert the centre area to an office/utility/WC.