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Have a look at the profiles that Stairrods UK do, they have L-Shaped, and drilled flat plates etc. Mitreing the corners is a bit of an art though.

Seal it with Arditex Ardit NA Self Levelling Screed

Triple check but Arditex ArditNA possibly with their seperate primer.

Porcelin/Cermic will just need levelling and fit. Kandean Rigid Core or any other Click or Glue LVT will need: 1 coat of Ardit NA or 1200 Screed Coat 1 coat of Ardit DP-C or F-Ball F77 Liquid Dpm 1 Final screed coat of Ardit NA or F-Ball 1200 or a screed of your choice with appropriate Primer...

Ardit NA and F-Ball 1200 can both be laid over damp subfloors as they are moisture tolerant, however, what do you plan to fit over the top?

For best floated results, 4mm Ply the subfloor and float the Engineered over it although judging by your photo, it looks like you could float over the floorboards as they are with a GOOD quality underlay like Duralay Multitex/Timbermate XL. If you decide to ply, it might be worth going 6mm...

If you go down the Liquid DPM option, you absolutely will need a layer of screed over it as it is impossible to apply 'flat' So you will add some height.

If you can't let in some plasterboard etc, then I read an idea on another forum where you could rub the wood back and then use a Automotive Body Filler product, sand back and decorate over that?

Likely a floor board squeaking against the Post or structure in that area rather than the post itself squeaking.

If the tiles are properly tightly fitted and going nowhere, you can screed over them with something like F-Ball 1200 or Arditex Ardit NA self levelling compound. You need to consider that those tiles MAY have a high Asbestos content (most are fairly benign if they are Asbestos tiles but some...

The fitters will pin the carpet under the lip, and use a seperate piece to band the riser in two pieces. They could use a single trim on the short length but it will look a little unsightly.

You can bulk the Ardex NA up with granite chippings then do a final coat over the top, provided there are no moisture issues of course (NA is moisture tolerant but it will depend what flooring you are laying over the top as to if it will stay on the floor if there is residual moisture present in...

You can't float a solid tongue and groove floor so you will be sticking it down. You need to 6mm or 9mm Ply the wood side of the area, then Liquid DPM the concrete and screed to level of the Ply. Then Glue the solid wood flooring direct to the subfloor.

Not had those issues with SR trims, plus their black finish is way more durable than CAT.

Assuming you have not had anything on-top of the vinyl when these have appeared, it's most likely the dis-colouration is coming from underneath, often a water leak.

Keep us updated as to how the installation stands up over the next few months/summer, glueing the floor down requires an even spread of adhesive and good adhesion/grip over a uniformed area, the glues have to work under a significant amount or pressure exerted laterally by the wood flooring as...

If its a regular sand/cement mix, it will take approx 4 weeks for every 2cm of depth to dry out. The floor should have had the moisture tested with a Hydrometer Box or equivalent to make sure it was dry (74% RH or below) before install, or, a Liquid DPM applied before installing the floor for a...

Most Pro's will be using Rewmar Flexy Fix Adhesive, It's widely available, if you can't get it then Gripp Fill will be fine but you'll have to allow a few hours for it to go off before fitting.

You need to get the specs from the builder.

You'll need to look at the tile adhesive specs before you will know what surface it can be used directly too, and of course the screed that was pumped in.