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in the process of doing up the kitchen, the next job is plastering the walls. This old pipe(?) was covered by some 70s wall tiles. We want just plastered walls with an upstand. So, what would you do with it? Anything easier than chasing out wall, and cutting it off?

Okay, so I'm going to use a yet-to-be-decided adhesive, but also screw the baten to the soffit. What would be the best type of screw to use, i.e. to grip e plaster below the metal lintel.

Anyone?

So anyway, glue will be fine then?! :wink: Yes it will going on to a painted surface. Any recommendations on which particular adhesive?

I've given up trying to drill in to a steel lintel to fix a recess hung window blind, so I've concluded the next best thing is to attach a batten in the recess, to then allow attaching the blind. What's the best construction adhesive for the job? Toolstation has lots of options (Griptite...

It's definitely 7kg.

Thanks for the replies. The issue was fixed by a Baxi engineer replacing a faulty Diverter Valve (which stopped the combi blowing its fuses!).

It's 65cm x 90cm.

We have received a frameless wall mirror as a gift. The mirror already has brackets attached, which appear to have been glued on (and taped while glue sets?); see images. The mirror weighs 7kg. My question is: do these brackets look like they will safely hold the mirror to the wall?

We have a combi boiler which is no longer providing constant hot water from the upstairs bath tap. A bit of background: it's a Baxi Duo-tec 33 HE A, installed about 6 1/2 years ago. It's been moved since installation, due to some building work about 2 years ago. The boiler is on the ground...

I have been under the timber suspended ground floor of our 60s detached house, insulating the floor from underneath (via a crawl space) using Knauf Ekoroll. Whilst down there, I noticed the ground was slightly damp around where the soil pipe from the upstairs bathroom goes from the ground...

The problem seems to be, as is so often the case, that for one opinion, another person has a contradicting view. I think I'll stick with rolls of insulation, and a vapour open membrane which hopefully will work well, a la...

My current plan is take natural wool insulation down there, and staple it in between the joists, and also and insulate the pipework while I'm down there. Seal any gaps with expanding foam. The original airbricks I hope will ensure air flow and no condensation...

Sorry, you're right; I should've searched first. :oops:

We have 1960s detached house which is very cold and draughty in the winter. One of the main culprits is the suspended wooden ground floor, and I would really like to address the issue before this winter. There is a crawl space under the floor, and 4 trap doors (under the stairs, kitchen...

I want to lay some reclaimed parquet in the hall, which has a suspended timber floor. What is the best way to go about this? Lay hardboard on the floorboards, then the parquet on that? I know that means removing and refitting skirting and also adjusting doors. It has been suggested I...

The flue for our combi boiler drips, regardless of weather or outside temp, so I'm sure it's not just condensation. Assuming the angle is wrong, can I safely adjust it?

Great! Many thanks.

I have created a pond, lined with arubber liner and edged with the largest stones I could find from the garden. However, I would prefer larger stones for the edging. Where can I buy reasonably priced, large stones tp create a solid edging? I'm based in Bath.

Currently have electricity meter in downstairs cloakroom. Photos show old ugly meter and service cable mounted on wall. To the left you can just see the new fuse box from a re-wire from a couple of years ago, which is above the door in to the cloakroom. The room is 'L' shaped with the loo 'round...