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slate because its 1850 cottage which would suit the slate better than the 1970s tiles on there now. The renovation I am doing is pretty much all DIY so i need to do things in the order that suits my time. At the moment I need light into some of the house but due to other work needed too I cant...

Hi I currently have a tiled roof (marley tiles) in my bungalow. I want to fit a few velux windows in for skylights for the hallway, however also plan to convert part of the loft aswell. Part of the conversion will include more velux windows for the attic rooms. However at that time i...

no as the existing ceiling joists below need to be retained. It would mean the new joists ontop of the existing ceiling joists + a small gap which would leave me with not enough headroom.

i can get the timber (already checked that), but it is 3x the price of the standard 4.8 lengths

pretty much all of it, however a lot of it contains load bearing walls in the centre so reduces the spans to about 4m, its the larger areas that have the big spans. my plan was to use 6m timber for the areas that require the big spans, and use the cheaper 4.8 timber lengths joining on the...

450 centres. My plan is to get the calcs from the SE and then apply to BC. This is why i am asking; from reading various things on the internet, it suggests 220x75 C24 would be more suitable? Obviously the SE work is costing money and the application to BC. If it then isnt good enough...

hi; 1. what is the distance between your brick walls (ie the length of the red line) > 5.8m 2. what is the distance between the loft walls (ie the length of the green line) > 4m 3. what is the section size of the joists? > 200 x 55 C24

sorry i didnt realise there is a difference between clear span, span or loaded span

the SE never said clear span, just 'span'. Clear span was my interpritation based on what i have read online - didnt realise there is a difference between a loaded span and a clear span.... there are no steels - the joists run from wall to wall, resting on the wall. i just wondered if...

structual engineer says clear span is the green line (between the vertical blue timbers) i thought it would be the red line (between the two wall plates) asking on here just for peace of mind as the size of timbers specced are based on that span rather than the longer span

Hi I am looking at a loft conversion. I've spoken to a structual engineer who says that the 'clear span' for the new joists go between the new vertical walls that go from the new joists and onto the rafters at the sides of the loft... rather than the span between the two walls the joists...

put acro props under the beam and remove one brick on one side and replace with a concrete padstone. Once once side is done, repeat the other side. leave it propped for about a month after to allow concrete to set

Hi I live in an old stone detached cottage (bungalow). One of the 3 chimneys (centre one) stonework is in poor condition in the attic, and i am keen on a loft conversion so; i would like to take the chimney down to ceiling (loft floor) height. This is so i can use the remaining chimney...

its not green. reason i asked is i ordered some moisture resistant from one supplier, which was green. then i ordered some more from another supplier and they said its moisture resistant but its not green. I dont plan on using it in bathrooms (i plan on using ply there) but plan to use...

hi is there any code/markings etc that would tell moisture resistant chipboard flooring (22mm) between its non-moisture resistant counterpart? it has 'P5' stamped on it. thanks! Derek

It is currently tiles but was originally slate (is 1850's cottage). I want to put it back to slate. currently you have the rafters, then batterns, then the fibre board, then more batterns which the tiles hook onto.

Hi I am planning to re-slate my roof. Currently under the slate there is an old sheet membrane that will need replacing, but there is also under that a sort of 1cm fibre board. Is it worth me keeping this, basically as extra insulation rather than taking it all away and putting standard...

what is the construction of this old cottage? concrete may not be suitable

dont forget vapour barrier ontop of the celetex boards before you put the plaster board on (or use plasterboard with vapour barrier on the back of it)

I dont really want to create soffits as it would take away the peroid look of the cottage on the outside, and would be extra work too. Quite like the look of how it is now. The timbers i planned to use were 4.8 meteres long, staggered across the whole house where they join. 2x 120mm x 50mm...