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I think alittlerespect is bang on the money and woody is a clown and I am a genius and squirells are lovely

for bubble foil to work with any degree of effect it needs to have minimal contact... for example if you had it flat against a wall with a plasterboard against it it would be next to useless if its used on a pitched ceiling it needs an air gap at the back and counter battening for air gap before...

Dot and dab a 38mm or 50mm thermal plasterboard and then mechanical fix with mushroom plugs, you will gain the benefits of the air cavity behind the board from the dabs, you gain nothing more from the air cavity from using stud, the only benefit being you can add additional quilt insulation...

What type of wall do you have Dan ? Some of Wooden Heads offerings were laughable above, though in fairness not all ....for once. One thing not touched upon above is that the OP had SOLID walls and internal drylining can cause interstitial condensation whereby bmould growths occur and theese...

Using that calculator is not as simple as putting in 2" of timber there are other variables and it is also not particularly accurate. If there was absolutely no insulation it would be more accurate at 2.3 u value with a degree of insulaion around 0.4...theese are default values dependant on...

If you have a cavity then do the easiest and best thing and inject this with poly bead platinum. External insulation is far superior to internal, which is exactly the reason it is used in coldern Northern european countries, it wont get damaged its not plasterboard, but it is expensive...

Default U value for stone walls as yours is 2.1. If you use this as your starting point for whatever method you employ to insulate. Any questions e mail me at xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

I have self built...literally from turning the first sod to the last ridge tile, the only things I did not do myself was the plumbing and electrics, other than that every last thing I did with my own hands, be prepared to work incredibly hard, have many sleepless nights and when you finally...

Just done a quick calculation, if there is 50mm of insulation in the cavity then alongside brick, thermalite and plasterboard on dabs then unfortunatly the u value is 0.33 if you had used full fill polypearl platinum bead at 50mm in cavity you would have scraped in at 0.29 which is the UK...

Hang fire before you do anything rash, let me know what make and thickness of insulation you have used in the cavity and the cavity size and i will do you a U value calculation to see if it complies before going to the expense of insulating internally, I would gladly e mail you the calculation...

Not sure what you mean by a paper version list of u values for different materials but .... materials per say do not actually have a u value, they have a manufacturers declared thermal conductivity value that is relevant to that particular material ie. phenolic insulation board, the thickness of...

The u value of board is 0.30 @75mm the u value of full fill is 0.32 @ 100mm Add to this the thermal resistance of the 25mm air cavity with board, added to the other elements making up the wall you will have a superior U value with the rigid boards, cant give you exact U values as its past...

I dont think 80mm between rafter will comply, will do the u value calculation tommorrow. As for multi foil type insulation, they are not certified and do not perform to the exagerated standards that are claimed in hot box laboratory environments let alone in the real world.

The term for this type of wall construction as has been touched upon is "Rubble stone wall construction" and quite common

Quinns make cement but dont know if they do w.p. they make many products not alaways under the Quinn name, like Botik make Evostik. Furthermore you wont get Quinn/ Rhino products in Uk merchants as you would not blue circle/ British Gypsum in Eire

If I knew how to post a picture here I would show you my own house rendered with lime waterproofed mortar.

I and most plasterers I know favour evostik. I can assure you it is used on tens of thousands of homes, housing estates, apartment blocks etc etc etc without hesitation without problem. Bare in mind that virtually all Irish housing stock is block bulit rendered, indeed you can not build with...

Unless we are talking at cross purposes Richard I would not term that a cassette stove. I would consider a cassette stove to be a solid fuel burning unit but inset to the fire surround and flush fitting. If the Errin model you have shown is the type you are after then off the top of my head I...

This is the kind of stove I would recomend though the Waterford Stanley are on the expensive side considering they are now built in China and not Ireland, Hunter and Stovax do high output BTU stoves with back boilers http://www.waterfordstanley.com/Products/993.htm

Would strongly advise getting a backboiler if it is a high output BTU stove, always works much better if the airing cupboard with the cylinder is fairly close, would be a waste to burn solid fuel and not take advantage of running rads off the backboiler at the same time, a good stove gives off...