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Hi does anyone know where you can get radiator covbers with grilles in the top ? We have three in our living room from when we bought the house and need a fourth. Everywhere ive looked only does ones with the front panels.

final bit of update: another guy said it could be the motorised valves? here are what appears to be two motorised valves honeywel f4 9933 honeywell f9 9923 both in airing cupboard. system is fully pumped. anone agree, and can tell me why? or is it the boiler stat, again if so why /...

the numbers on the front of the boiler say between 4 to 5, closer to 5. Surely a boiler should even work on max ? so why would the cylinder stat affect the pooterton's manual reset ?

p.s. changed cylinder stat setting to 60 (instead of 65) last night and it didnt reset this morning. Although some may consider that a solution, i dont like the fact its doing it at 6 so will still be interested in why this could be resetting the boiler? :)

happy to do so, but out of interest why would the cylinder stat be tripping the potterton's therm switch? i.e. saying to the boiler "u r over heating". it only seems to trip at the end of a programmed cycle (morning programme, +1hr) or if u manually switch hot water off, not during a cycle. The...

Hi, I have a SIME badged Potterton profile 100e. Every morning as my electronic Programmer switches off the boiler therm stat reset button trips and i have to go down and reset it. (The button under the boiler). It basically does it as well with +1hr or turning the water off manually...

cheers. this mighe be a bit outside the remit of the plumber (he seems more of a pipes and corgi man) which trade would i contact to work on this for me ? carpenter ? a different plumber ? i should imagine its a fairly common problem

FREESTANDING BATH TAPS ARE WOBBLY Whilst Im in a "fixing things that im not happy with in my bathroom" mood. The stand pipes attached to my bath taps feel wobbly. They dont move too much but any pressure and i feel you could snap them. Im not sure if its a design fault or just bad fitting...

my apolagies, i hope u have all the info necessary... we r fixing a few oversights later on in the game. the tiles are up, so tanking isnt a possibility. the only thing in our favour is we havent sealed or grouted yet. At up to 13mm thick they should slow down any water getting through. using...

The plot thickens the PITT techincal helpline says: Bear inmind these are 100x100 tiles 13mm thick, so they end up witth quite a bit of grout / silicone... MOVABLE JOINT "Packing an entire vertical line with silicone on thick joints allows no movement for the tile. with silicone its about...

it was a cock up by the builder and now the tiles are on. we r solving it by using stone sealant, then microflex then more stone sealant then we r using aqua max grout oclourant to seal the grout waterproof. not ideal but hey.the tiles are up to 13mm thick so it will be packed with grout. :(...

SEALING A GAP ? where the plasterboard meets the aquaboard the tiles havent been cut and placed in that corner yet. I have noticed that there is a small gap of about 2-4mm between the pb and the aquaboard. Before these tiles are put in, should i seal this gap? And if so , how? Waterproof...

some guy on the other thread is saying u should silicone the shower tray to the wall..... he doesnt seem to agree with the silicone twice approach either lol. Let me know what you think on that thread if u dont mind and also if u have a suggestion for my small gap between the pb and aquaboard...

got u ) thanks rich if only u lived closser id buy u a beer , sadly kent is many a mile from u

what i mean about the shower tray is someone told me that before you put the tiles down u seal any small gap between the shoer tray and wall with waterproof tape. As for silicone, i always thought u grouted the very bottom vertical space between the tiles and the tray and then siliconed over...

The tiles are quartz (oyster from topps tiles) they are up to 13mm thick and all different shapes, so they dont look the same anyway lol. you can take them in and out and it doesnt seem to matter from an asthetic look. One thing in our favour is that thickness allows quite a lot of silicon...

shower tray is indeed fitted down with concrete weak mix onto a very thick ply (i think it was atleast 12mil. i was just thinking whether it was worth trying to atleast water seal the bottom row of tiles from behind.

oh, p.s. Richard, one idea, As we havent grouted and i have plenty of tiles left i could take off the bottom row or two. Could i do anything behind these tiles to strengthen the waterproofing? As this is where most the splashback would come. Is there something i could paint on or fix...

definately helping, iit was actually the tile shop that said epoxy is a pig to apply, and you'd think they would try and sell it to me as its more expensive. He said "it sticks to everything and u have to sell it with stuff to remove it from tiles/walls". It would be good if we could find...

I presume we r not worrying about the aquaboard and tiles, just the platerboard wall with plater skim and tiles ? The sealant we have goes over the tiles before grouting: http://www.toppstiles.co.uk/tprod128/section/Colour-Intensifier-500ML.html Yo put a coat or two on after grouting...