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Hey all. I have a stud wall made using metal framing. I have taken it down as it was built on top of floor boards that I’m replacing with t&g chipboard. Given the cost of timber I plan on reusing it when I put the wall up again however I want to put a socket in the wall. I plan on getting an...

I've filled some holes with Easifill 60 and looked to see how soon I could paint it and it says 24-hours. Had a google for a filler than can be painted the same day (for the next time) and apparently Toupret Quick Dry Filler is ready to paint in 3-hours. Any one used it? Any good? Thinking of...

Hi @DiyNutJob Any specific primer you recommend? Or just use the paint diluted with water to prime? Cheers

Disappointing to not have any replies but anyway... I'm planning on using Sandtex Microseal Smooth Masonry Paint. Apparently it's breathable. My question is regarding the need to seal the render as it is new? Should I water this stuff down or just apply 2 coats undiluted? Cheers

The 1934 house I live in is rendered with pebbledash. I hate it but can't afford to pay someone to pull it all off and render it smooth. Anyway, these photos are from the top of the kitchen window. The gap you see above the white plastic ledge was rendered but it had blown so I pulled it out to...

What I should have done was installed interlinked smoke detectors in the rooms while there was access but this option wasn’t presented to me earlier. I have them in the kitchen and each landing plus in the loft room but should have put them in the bedrooms and living room too

I think we’re shopping in different shops The fire door already installed in the loft cost £172

£10k to fit fire doors and linings!

Hi All I've had my gable end wall rendered with sand & cement. I want to paint it white. I've not done any external painting before. Do I treat it like fresh plaster and use a watered down coat first followed by 2 coats of undiluted paint? Can anyone advise on choice of paint? There's paint...

I need some FD30 doors to satisfy LABC. It's a 1934 property and the doorways vary in size from 1955 x 718 to 1975-715 mm The doors online all seem to state that a max of 2-3mm (depending on supplier) can be trimmed from any single edge. My understanding is that doors are fitted with 3mm gaps...

£200-£300 to buy - ouch! Can't seem to find them available to rent in the big name chains like HSS. Can anyone recommend a hire shop in London?

Hi All, I've been let down by a number of tilers. I guess they've got a lot of work on but it's disappointing when people don't attend to quote as agreed. Anyway, the work still needs doing. I've done a bit of tiling before but I'm so slow and have few tools that it is not the most economical...

I thought that the intumescent strip was optional - for fire AND smoke protection e.g. FD30S? Are building control requiring intumescent strip? Happy to be corrected.

Hi, I'm investigating replacing all the internal doors with FD30 fire doors but want to find out if the door frames will need replacing. My understanding is that the thickness of FD30 doors is 44mm compared with the thickness of a standard door of 35mm. Is it acceptable to remove the doorjam...

Hi All, I'm purchasing some internal fire doors after having the loft converted. We've decided we want to replace all the doors to a similar style so I need some advice on measuring up for ordering as I don't want to call a chippie until the doors are on-site as lead times during the conversion...

I need to chase 2 plastered brick walls in order to run some 8-core CQR cable. I'm a DIYer so don't have all the professional gear. Previously I have used an angle grinder for chases and the dust was horrendous. It's a 1930s property and the bricks were super hard. I still have the angle...

Hi, I'm speccing out a new bathroom for the loft conversion. Found a toilet the missus likes, Ideal Standard Back to Wall Aquablade Pan (E050901) and now I need to get a concealed cistern for it. The cisterns comes in either mechanical or pneumatic flavours. As long as the flush button is...

So basically it sounds like humidistats can be problematic so either trigger the fan with the light or trigger it manually with a cord-pull. I think I may opt for the light and then at night we can switch a mirror light on if we're only using the toilet.

An isolator will be fitted outside the bathroom door. I was just hoping for a smarter way to activate the fan rather than just whenever the light is on. Since we have a window in the bathroom, we won't even need the light on most mornings when using the shower!

Hi, We're in the middle of a loft build and need to make certain decisions during the 1st fix to help things later on. Our current bathroom had an extractor fan wired to the lights which came on with the lights. This could be annoying as we only really need the extractor fan while we are...