Painting render

Joined
15 Dec 2008
Messages
577
Reaction score
9
Location
London
Country
United Kingdom
Hi All

I've had my gable end wall rendered with sand & cement. I want to paint it white.

I've not done any external painting before.

Do I treat it like fresh plaster and use a watered down coat first followed by 2 coats of undiluted paint?

Can anyone advise on choice of paint? There's paint from Dulux, Sandtex, Leyland to chose from in my local.

What type of roller sleeve should I use?

Grateful for any useful advice.

Cheers
 
Sponsored Links
Disappointing to not have any replies but anyway...

I'm planning on using Sandtex Microseal Smooth Masonry Paint. Apparently it's breathable.

My question is regarding the need to seal the render as it is new? Should I water this stuff down or just apply 2 coats undiluted?

Cheers

 
No experience. But I would prime for all painting. Primer seals and sticks.
 
Sponsored Links
Paint is not a primer. You can't use that to prime. Look for masonry primer.
 
You need to make sure the render has dried out completely befor you attempt to paint, otherwise it will start to flake and peel off, regardless of how you prepare it.
 
Paint is not a primer. You can't use that to prime. Look for masonry primer.

Unless otherwise stated, it is perfectly acceptable to dilute the masonry paint as per the manufacturers instructions (which is what the OP was considering doing).

For Dulux Trade Weathershield masonry-

New or sound bare surfaces should be sealed with a thinned first coat of Weathershield Smooth Masonry Paint (add up to 1 part clean water to 5 parts paint). Surfaces that remain powdery, friable or chalky after thorough preparation should be sealed with a coat of Dulux Trade Weathershield Stabilising Primer. Note: do not seal sound new or bare surfaces with stabilising primer.

To the OP- just thin the Sandtex according to the instructions on the back of the tin (first coat only). No need for anything else.

BTW, I decorate for a living.

Oh, and follow @conny 's advice and make sure that the render is completely cured. If it rains the day before you paint, don't worry, just thin the paint a bit less.
 
BTW, I decorate for a living.
Just means more business when it fails. What you suggest means the OP has to get:

Dulux Trade Weathershield masonry
Weathershield Smooth Masonry Paint

This is no better or cheaper than masonry paint + masonry primer.
 
Just means more business when it fails. What you suggest means the OP has to get:

Dulux Trade Weathershield masonry
Weathershield Smooth Masonry Paint

This is no better or cheaper than masonry paint + masonry primer.

I really don't understand why you spend so much time tilting at windmills.

I am starting to wonder if you are loaded up on schedule 2 drugs. If you are I hope that you are being assessed on a regular basis, because, if you are, they are impacting your ability to engage with other (read: "normal") people.

I am recommending that the OP follows the manufacturer's advice. You seem to interpret that as evidence of some kind of global cabal set up (by the association of low paid decorators) to rip off punters.

The OP mentioned that they want to use Sandtex. I posted a link to Dulux instructions, primarily, because it was easier to find. I linked to one product (I did not recommend two different products- you did).

You are the one suggesting that the OP purchase two different products. One of which is absolutely unnecessary.
 
You are the one suggesting that the OP purchase two different products. One of which is absolutely unnecessary.
It is necessary according to experts. Without the primer, the paint job will likely fail early, perfect for low pay decorators to get double the pay.


Pro render painter would use primer:

Render repairer would prime too:

My suggestion to any painter is: don't leave home without priming.
 
Last edited:
My suggestion is not to believe everyone who has a YT channel, and calls themselves a professional, actually is a bona-fide and qualified professional.
Go with the MI's before I'd follow the letter of a 'video star'.
 
I believe only my own eyes. This is why no bona-fide pro can tell me my this or that equipment will blow. My eyes taught me about priming. They're the best teacher there is.
 
It is necessary according to experts. Without the primer, the paint job will likely fail early, perfect for low pay decorators to get double the pay.


Pro render painter would use primer:

Render repairer would prime too:

My suggestion to any painter is: don't leave home without priming.


The professional in your first video is as asked in the comments section "Do you use peel stop on newly rendered walls and first painting or just repairs?" to which he replies "only when a surface needs stabilising. Sound render should be fine".

Even the "evidence" that you provide to back up your arguments contradicts you.

By your own admission, you "have no experience" but still insist that us tradesmen and manufacturers are part of secret cabal that exist to rip off customers, and then, bizarrely, you suggest that the only tradesmen that can be trusted are the ones that you find on YouTube.
 
Hi All

I've had my gable end wall rendered with sand & cement. I want to paint it white.

I've not done any external painting before.

Do I treat it like fresh plaster and use a watered down coat first followed by 2 coats of undiluted paint?

Can anyone advise on choice of paint? There's paint from Dulux, Sandtex, Leyland to chose from in my local.

What type of roller sleeve should I use?

Grateful for any useful advice.

Cheers

Apologies for the disruptive replies.

I missed your request for advice about rollers. My personal preference is a Purdy Colossus sleeve.


Do you still have scaffolding up?

If not, it is possible to roll most of a 2 story gable end from the ground, but once the extension pole reaches about half way up the second floor, it is difficult to apply sufficient pressure against the wall. An even bigger hurdle to overcome is that you need to be able to regularly return the roller to the tray (or skuttle), that means decreasing/increasing the length of the pole every few minutes. Slightly less of a chore with a decent quality pole made by the likes od Purdy or Wooster.
 
Just dilute your first coat with 1 litre of water per 10litre paint.

After that it just goes on as usual.
I prefer a purdy fleece roller and a decent masonry brush.
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top