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Any of the building adhesives will do it. That said, I just used silicone, the same stuff I sealed it with. Saves opening two tubes. Its been in place for about ten years now without issue.

I've got the big titan. Was £150 well spent. I bought it for a specific job where it comfortably paid for itself. Its since done loads more jobs for me and friends. Thickest concrete was about 300mm and it went through that OK.

I've used brick acid a few times. Bowl comes out looking like new. Obviously be careful not to get it on anything else, especially yourself, but it doesn't harm the ceramic.

Gravel drives are aweful in an urban location. They shed marbles all over the road making it unsafe especially for cyclists and motorcycles. Can't see a buffer or grid totally stopping the spread onto the road.

Same experience as mrrusty. Neighbour"s builder used a private inspector and got away with all sorts of things that really shouldn't have passed. As a builder I can see the benefit of going private, as a homeowner I'd use the council.

By far the best are the ladders that fold into 3 parts and sit on the hatch but you won't get one to fit a small opening. I'd look to enlarge the hole. Its usually pretty easy, albeit a little messy. Well worth doing.

I've got one of the super cheap mini chainsaws. 100mm blade. It takes makita batteries, which I already have, so no issue with poor quality batteries. The saw is obviously of low quality but it works brilliantly. Cuts through thick branches with ease and is easy to use one handed. Way faster...

No. Its a restriction placed on the whole building. If it is only 2.76m then you are likely to get away with it, though, unless you have annoying neighbours. Or you can do it with planning permission. Not a complicated process

We've go one of the portable gas showers at our off grid place. It works well. Plenty of heat output. It does need to be used in a ventilated space. Not a problem for us as its in an outhouse, but probably not a great long term solution. I have seen them mounted in an external cupboard then...

You'd save a huge amount if time not mowing it, or at least mowing it less. Let some of go a bit more wild. You can mow paths where you walk. Much better for wildlife and less work for you, win-win

If its less than 15m2 the non combustible rule doesn't apply, that said, mine is bigger and is block built with a metal roof. The neighbour has a lot of tall planting so it looks fine from their side. We are on poor draining clay soil so in heavy rain a moat would literally be a moat. That...

My workshop is right on the boundary and I got planning without issue. Its 3.2m tall. You could slope it so the wall near the boundary is lower if you are worried.

Any reason to think you wouldn't get planning permission for a taller building? Mine is 3m high and it went through planning permission without a hitch. Surely it'll be cheaper, easier and better once finished. If it gets denied you can still fall back on your current plan.

For a small mirror a self drilling fixing will be fine. Eg https://www.screwfix.com/p/easyfix-self-drill-plasterboard-fixings-metal-32mm-100-pack/2422H For a bigger mirror hollow wall anchors are good. You do need to get the right length and have enough cavity to push the unexpanded fixing in...

We've got one similar to the link in the first post. Its in a lean to so very well ventilated area. Works well. Pumps out loads of heat. I think it was marketed as a horse shower but works on people too. I have seen then fitted at camp sites. One place had an indoor shower with the boiler...

Festool are very easy to set and accurate. Obviously pricey too. The scale is much larger and it indexes every mm making it simple to get right and repeat. Then there is a fine adjust for getting it spot on.

Don't mow it all. Lawns are poor for wildlife and very dull. I presume you won't be playing bowls or football on it. Put some other plants in or nurture a wild flower meadow. You can always mow some paths around and through it.

Mine is a bit like you describe. Its a little bigger (about 4 x 7) and single skin block built. Inside is lined with rockwool on some walls and celotex on others then covered in OSB. Got the OSB second hand, it was building site hoarding and came ready painted and was cheaper than plasterboard...

Yes, funnily enough I've seen that. It doesn't give a suitable value for the capacitor and I couldn't get it to work. Hoping for a more practical answer on here from someone who knows motors, even if that is just proving the motor is kaput

I picked an old fan hoping to use it in the workshop. It'll run and gives decent airflow but it won't start. If I power it then it buzzes, if I give it a little nudge it spins nicely. I wondered if it needed a capacitor but I tried a couple, rather blindly, in a couple of different...