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You can't float a solid tongue and groove floor so you will be sticking it down. You need to 6mm or 9mm Ply the wood side of the area, then Liquid DPM the concrete and screed to level of the Ply. Then Glue the solid wood flooring direct to the subfloor.

Not had those issues with SR trims, plus their black finish is way more durable than CAT.

Assuming you have not had anything on-top of the vinyl when these have appeared, it's most likely the dis-colouration is coming from underneath, often a water leak.

Keep us updated as to how the installation stands up over the next few months/summer, glueing the floor down requires an even spread of adhesive and good adhesion/grip over a uniformed area, the glues have to work under a significant amount or pressure exerted laterally by the wood flooring as...

If its a regular sand/cement mix, it will take approx 4 weeks for every 2cm of depth to dry out. The floor should have had the moisture tested with a Hydrometer Box or equivalent to make sure it was dry (74% RH or below) before install, or, a Liquid DPM applied before installing the floor for a...

Most Pro's will be using Rewmar Flexy Fix Adhesive, It's widely available, if you can't get it then Gripp Fill will be fine but you'll have to allow a few hours for it to go off before fitting.

You need to get the specs from the builder.

You'll need to look at the tile adhesive specs before you will know what surface it can be used directly too, and of course the screed that was pumped in.

Calcium Sulphate and Anhydrite Screeds are usually pumped in! If it is one of these screeds, they dry with a latence on the surface that needs to be mechanically ground off a week or two after they are pumped. They then need to be allowed to dry until the floor reaches 74% Relative Humidity and...

Assuming it’s not a Calcium Suplhate or Anhydrite floor that hasn’t been ground, get the wood up, moisture tolerant screed the floor to neutralise the old adhesive and fit what you need, however, the wood floor has failed because of bad prep or bad install or both, unlikely anything to do with...

Unlikely to be an issue with the wood flooring, almost certainly an issue with the floor prep and/or moisture issues if the subfloor was not correctly dries out before the flooring issue. Was the wood flooring floated on an underlay or fully bonded to the subfloor? Is the subfloor wood or...

The UFH supplier don’t warranty the flooring though It’s the flooring manufacturer guidelines that need to be followed.

Always follow the flooring manufacturers instructions/specs.

Click LVT notoriously fails when you put heavy furniture on it, even if the subfloor is perfectly prepared. The weight often stops the floor moving and the weak plastic joints break. Much better to go with glue down LVT as you have to prep the subfloor to the same standards in reality for the...

There doesn’t seem to be a hard and fast rule, I’ve never worked for Tapi or CR I’ve spend 30 years in department store and quality independent flooring businesses. I’ve come across really good fitters/jobs done by the multiples fitters and seen some utter rubbish. It is true that rates at...

Gripper across the step is normal, stairs are not grippered on the sides. Many fitters do not hoover up, there a million spurious reasons why, about the only one that holds some water is that it gives the home owner the opportunity to go over everything carefully themselves and less risk of any...

Decent carpet on an underlay will probably tuck mostly under the underlay if you need it to the other side of the gripper if you trim it long, 20mm is high, but possible it will tuck under and touch the base of the skirting.

Nightmare to tuck carpet between gripper and quadrant as there’s no edge to hold it securely.

As Daz says, 6mm or 9mm Sp101 flooring grade ply is essential, feather coat the joins and screw heads then glue tiles direct. Watch some YouTube video on prep. Don’t fit on ‘normal’ ply, it will likely delaminate and the floor fail.

What sort of Vinyl planks? Glue down or Click?