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Primer, undercoat, top coat

Install battens over the membrane, and fix the cladding to the battens. Better, install OSB on the frame, then membrane, then battens, then cladding. By membrane I mean something like this...

You can't do it from the inside. The membrane goes between the frame and the cladding

The usual way to do this would be to install a breathable membrane over the frame, before fixing the cladding. That would stop moisture from penetrating, and allow and water vapour from inside to evaporate. Then fit the insulation inside

I think not. PD allowances are in relation to the building as first built (or as it was in 1948 if built earlier)

The correct answer is mist coat. Never PVA before painting, as it stops the paint from adhering properly. PVA would be used to sonsolidate a surface before plastering

Drilling a small hole into a steel beam won't compromise it.

Can you go up and over, putting the pipes under the first floor boards?

Masking tape isn't the way to apply silicone. Remember that silicone is meant to go *in*, not *on*. There should only be the bare minimum on the surfaces either side of the gap

Note the pinned post that says: SHARE YOUR DIY PROJECTS WITH US - >> NO << QUERIES HERE Please !!!!! if you post this in In the Garden, you might get more responses

Note the pinned post that says: SHARE YOUR DIY PROJECTS WITH US - >> NO << QUERIES HERE Please !!!!! if you post this in Building, you might get more responses

Note the pinned post that says: SHARE YOUR DIY PROJECTS WITH US - >> NO << QUERIES HERE Please !!!!! if you post this in Windows and Doors, you might get more responses

It's been like this for years. People seem unable to understand "No queries here please"

Four people who've failed to notice this thread died 8 years ago...

"When I confronted the original plasterer, I gave him several opportunities to get the work sorted, but he just stood there looking shocked saying "What do you want me to do?" When I replied "I'm not a plasterer, what do you think you can you do?", he just repeated over and over "It's within...

That's appalling. I hope you get some redress against them. is there sonewhere you can leave reviews, so that other people don't employ them? Fingerrs crossed that the new plasterer thinks it can be remedied without ripping it all out.

You don't need battens. Cut the insulation sightly undersize. Insert screws horizontally and sit the insulation on them. Squirt expanding foam down all the sides to seal the foam to the joists. That's what I did

Photos would help. Your block paving, or a step, needs to fall away from the garage door. The door needs a weather bar at the bottom to direct rainwater. Does the door frame currently have any kind of threshold at the bottom?

I think Building Regs currently specify 175mm if using board insulation (Celotex, etc). Though presumably you're not aiming to do a Building Regs loft conversion. technically you only need an air gap for older style impervious roofing felt, and it's not essential if it's a modern breathable...

To be clear, it's not your responsibility to contact the manufacturer at this stage. You bought the goods from the installer, and your contract is with him. Legally and practically, he needs to sort it out. Warranties are for further down the line.