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Thanks for your reply. Yes, there's two guys and they're both very experienced bricklayers (from Poland) and are doing a very tidy job. Mortar is designed to be weaker than the blockwork and hence any movement doesn't crack the blocks, so my main concern is if concrete is too strong and the...

A question for the experienced builders on here... I'm having an extension done and my builder is using sharp sand for the mortar mix and says this is equally as good as using building sand and that as it's all being rendered over, the colour whont be seen anyway. Is this true and is it...

Cheers noseall, I meant coverage not cost, so how many metres square from a bag?

I've used 6mm before but all my local merchants have only got 10mm. Are these going to be okay? Also, what' teh coverage roughly per 25KG bag?

By rendering, I can fit fascia board neatly upto the rendered wall, but I can't fit fasci board until I've fitted the roofing felt as the felt wraps over battens that are nailed over the top of the facia Fitting the fascic first means I don't get the wall behind it rendered and it's unlikely...

Gripfill Skirting Architrave is nailed to the door with lost head nails and a centre punch Paint wall before attaching painted woodwork hence no need to cut in You can buy bags of powder coving adhesive. Good luck!

I'd use Gripfill - it's designed to work on concrete. Not sure how easy it would be to paint with your floor paint though!

DO I use cement or render and what ratio mix? Non BC building - it's for a detached garage

It's got a 4.3m span so I'm thinking 6 by 2 at 60cm intervals, but would 4 by 2 suffice? I realise it wouldn't for a house extension but it's a flat felt roof and no internal ceiling to crack or palsterboard/insulation weight

It's for a flat foor for a detached garage Your comment - just for show of course. Living in built up suburbia, I'd be amazed if the roof lifted off in high winds. Are the straps really necessary (no BC on this garage)? I'm probably going to put the bent straps on the outside only which...

What sort of screws should I use to hold a wallplate onto 3.6N Celcon blocks and at what distance intervals?

I'm after something just enough off white to contrast the woodwork and ceiling. Anyone found any good ones they like?

Should I use a thick pile roller or large brush? What's normally used?

Hi guys - internal doors. They're all new and untreated currently

I like the idea of varnish like Ronseal Diamond hard over wax or oil as it's going to be easier to keep clean and wipe. I've read though that water based varnishes can't be used. What do you guys recommend?

A lot of people would be in shock horror at reading such a suggestion, but it's exaclty what I'd do. When you board out a wall/ceiling it's going to have a lot of gaps anyway and after scrim taping and plastering, these don't matter. If there's no other way to get them up then cut the buggers...

Usually I get magnolia or white and both are cheapish at Selco or B&Q Trade. For other colours (Crown and Dulux), B&Q are £27 for 5 litres. Has anyone found anywhere that is cheap for paints?

Searching these forums, a lto of people like both. I'm tempted towards the polyurethane as it'll be easier to wipe/remove stains and I've heard that Danish oil picks up dust and marks easily. Is there any advantage to Danish oil over polyurethane?

la la laa

You can try that, but it sounds like a temporary solution to mask the problems. Sounds like you have a damp problem - rising damp, leaking gutter, broken render outside etc etc. I'd resolve the cause not the symptom of the damp