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Great tips guys. Thanks for the ideas.

Thanks for the ideas opps and foxhole. Haven't used Sadolin or Sikkens before, though I've heard of them. If I use them, can I put another covering over the top, such as stain?

Hi Chaps, Does anyone have any tips for the best way to treat external wooden cladding (on a sun room). The boards are redwood v-lining. I replaced the boards on one side of the sun room two years and treated them with Ronseal Trade 10 Year woodstain, but now I notice this is already starting to...

Fantastic. Thanks very much for that EFL. That's really helpful. Thanks also for the suggestion for the 20A switch, which was going to be my next question. All the best.

Thanks EFL. The fused switch has a 3 amp fuse. Then the mcb in the CU is 16 amps. The shower is the only device on this circuit.

Thanks for those very helpful replies. I appreciate you taking the trouble to respond. It's a Volex RCD (VR25) rated at 25A / 30mA, and it's 35mm wide. The shower does have a fused switch. I'll try to put a photo below.

Hi Chaps, I'm thinking of putting in a 3KW handwash for a new bog and want it wired to an RCD for safety. There's already a 30mA RCD for a 150w power shower. Could the handwash be wired into that or does it need its own separate one? Cheers, Reg

Thanks very much for those replies guys. I guess it's just back to the drawing board and redo the insulation thoroughly in the ways you suggest. I'll get the stuff tomorrow. Thanks very much again.

We've just removed some kitchen cabinets to expose a 22mm cold water pipe behind. They're all insulated with the usual foam tubing or lagging strips on some bends. The weird thing is that when the insulation is removed, the pipe is wet. Not just here and there but all along its length (about...

Just a quick update in case anyone wants to know what happened. I replaced the programmer and also the controller in the boiler and now all is working fine. Thanks to everyone for their help.

Good to know. Thanks for the tip.

Good points. Thanks for those. Oilhead, is there one you would suggest instead?

Thanks OBND and Ollski. All very helpful. As it's an ancient programmer and was looking tatty anyway, I've decided to replace it with the modern version. Also got a new motorised valve with a replaceable head. I'll report back later if I can get it all to to work, but still worried about what...

Thanks undertrained. I understand now. Must be S plan.

Thanks Nozzle. Can't find any fuses in the boiler itself. But following everyone's comments I've checked the motorised valves carefully and one of them is definitely shot. Looks like it's shorted due to a slow leak. The other one is fine. I guess that short could also explain the scorching in...

Thanks Ian and Mike. I don't think it's an S or Y system. I know it's old, about 25 years. It's fairly basic with just two, 2-port motorised valves, one for the heating and one for the hot water. I removed the programmer box (after isolating it of course) and took it apart and there seems to be...

The oil boiler has suddenly stopped working, no lights, nothing. The programmer on the wall is a Drayton LP722, which is pretty old. Its digital display is active and the red lights are on, indicating that the water and heating are switched on. However, there's a cable (obviously) running from...

Thanks. Good suggestion. I think their reducer 1143 might do the trick. It seems to fit a variety of different pipe diameters.

Thanks Jim. I can’t see anything on the pipe but I think you’re right about it being half inch. Do you know if there’s an adaptor I could use to join it to the stopcock, or is it too ancient?

Thanks for the reply UT. The pipe’s exposed because I excavated round it to find the leak. The alkathene idea is interesting. It’s definitely under 22mm though and doesn’t fit the stopcock. It was just shoved in and bunged up with silicone (I’m surprised it’s lasted 15 years!)