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Yes.. The strip was under the door. When the door was changed, they left it and I assumed it was just some trim, but when I cut it out, I realised it was covering the cavity.. I didn't really have much choice to remove it as it was too thick to tile over... But with hindsight, I might have left...

I did consider this, but the cavity is far from straight and is different depths, so it will be hard, if not impossible to get insulation board in.. Perhaps I could put it in in smaller pieces, but it didn't seem like a stable surface to tile over.. That said, its only the last 2" upto the door...

I have just had new bifolds fitted and because I want to tile right up to the door, I cut out what I thought was some some trim, so the tiler can get right up to the door. Turned out, this "trim" covered the cavity, and I believe it is a "cavity closer", which I have mostly removed (rightly or...

I have a LOT of windows and atleast 1/2 of the hinges have failed to date resulting in windows that don't close.. The the same story across the estate with all of the neighbours complaining about the same thing.. Clearly the developers cut corners when it came to the windows. When I moved in...

After buying a 12 year old house a while back, I am doing a deep clean of the shower... There is a clear trim on the OUTSIDE which is purely cosmetic and offers little value than plugging a slot in the extrusion which has gone hard and yellow and I would like to replace it. Problem is I can't...

Can I ask one last question.. After swapping the valves about, I have found a combination where they all seem to seal.. As a test, I tied off the fill valve, marked and line and left it.. and the water level in 'faulty' valve has dropped perhaps 5mm in 24 hours... But all of the toilets have...

Genuine seal.. I am waiting for a reply from the supplier.. As you say, perhaps its just a bad seal... When you say "bayonet" clip, you mean the round piece with a ring of 6 or 8 clips which told the seal to the valve? I was thinking the same, but its clicks in really positively and it looks...

I assumed it was the mating surface in the cistern, but the fault follows the valve/seal not the cistern.. So it must be the valve or the seal.. The silicon seal looks perfect.. Totally smooth.. No issues at all but I did think about some silicon grease.. As for the leak.. Don't talk about...

I have 4 identical toilets (which have the Ideal Standard SV92667 Flush Valve) all of which have all had their share of problems over the years due to shoddy installation and wear and tear. Over time, I have removed the cisterns.. Installed new close couple screws (Which were sticks of rust)...

Looks like I fixed it.. There is a setting under the "Keypad Menu" regarding the Backlight.. It was set to 0 where it goes off after 30 seconds.. I changed it to 1 and its on all the time now. This is curious as I 100% didn't change this.. Its a totally different menu which I didn't know...

I went back and reversed all of the changes that I had made and I still can't get the display to stay on.. I am starting to think that it always timed out to a blank screen, but my partner is 100% sure it didn't (and I tend to agree with her). Its not the end of the world, but I would like to...

I did change my hall PIR (where the keypad is) from 8 (Entry Route) to 7 (Final Exit). I am not 100% sure if this was the right thing to do, but it works now. Before I did this, the alarm would activate the moment I opened the front door and was visible to the PIR.. But now I get a countdown...

I was 100% sure that it was always on before.. Absolutely convinced that it always had the blue light in the top corner showing "tag" and something on the display. Without it, I can't see where to swip the tag in the dark... I know you can wake it up by pressing a button, but you have to pull...

This week I discovered the Engineer code for my Euro 46 and was finally able to make some changes to how it works in my environment (the previous owner set it with the app, where as I am using the keypad). Everything is great now, except for one thing.. The display keeps going off as if its...

Ignore this.. After much reading and then trying various settings I have it cracked. I can now come in.. The PIR sees me and I get a 10 second countdown.. I can also leave the house the via the back door and I can enter the house by the back door and get the same countdown as the PIR.. So I am...

I bought a house a few years ago which has a rebadged Pyronix (I believe Euro 46) alarm... It was a managed alarm and was enabled/disabled with an app. I refused to renew the management contract and just set it using the Pin or Fob.. But it has a really annoying problem (2 actually). 1. I have...

:) I knew that was coming.. I didn't install the system... The original builders did.. They must have had the idea of a 2 zone house.. But then used the CM67Z stat and HR80UK TRVs to do it in "software".. Infact the cynic in me goes a bit further.. The house is 12 years old and had many...

No. They are just wired in parallel so just act like one valve... I retrofitted Evohome over my old setup which was basically 2 relays (CM67z Thermostat for CH.. And 1 Channel timer for HW).. the CH relay (CM67z) controlled the 2 valves with no problem... It didn't even care.. It just put mains...

To be clear.. I have read many posts with similar symptoms to this but the cause is either: 1. Communications Issues to the BDR91s 2. Faulty valves - where the relay closes on the BDR91s but the Valves still create demand. My case is totally different.. The BDR91s are doing exactly what they...

A few weeks back changed my Honeywell CM67z to a EvoHome.. I have had many teething problems but am starting to get used to the Nuances of the system. I have 2xMotorized Vales in my Central heating, but they are wired in parallel. I have a single BDR91 which opens both valves at the same time...