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i have been recomended a spirotrap magnabooster today after the BG guy replaced diverter valve inners and fitted air vent to my 10 yo worcester bosche combi. said if this part kept breaking they would not repair unless i had magnabooster at£279.

thank you all for the comments/advice. looks like i managed to get a plasterer that gives you proper plasterers a bad name. just shows what a load of tosh that advert for quality tradesman is. he is coming back which he didnt need to as he has been paid already. whether its to do job...

he used 12.5 mm boards but the ceiling isnt bouncing just looks wavy where it meets the wall. he was from that newly advertised company on tv for finding "quality" tradesman!!

no. i was holding the boards up for him. he just put screws in. i even crawled into the loft to check for joists but by the time i had pushed things throught the ceiling he had screwed boards up. i kept saying about the joists and he just said"believe me, i have been doing it 11 years and no...

after advice on here i had ceilings reboarded rather than just skimmed. plasterer insisted there was no real need to find joists in lat and plaster ceiling. just put screws in wherever. anyway ceiling is still up but skimming is rubbish and he is having another go. is it normal to have a...

3mm gap to cut edges of plasterboard (bound edges lightly butted) so if its one cut edge against a bound edge what gap if any do you leave?

hopefully overboarding several ceilings if i can find a friend next week. i have come across this on a web site: "Start in a corner of the room and with your helper and the Deadman ready, lift the first board up against the joists and slide it firmly into the corner. Use your Deadman to hold...

maybe i will keep the wobbly wall look. maybe it adds character. thanks for the help.

the walls as a rule are lathe and plaster. so does that mean its gypsum? the larder has been seperated with plasterboard to form a meter cupboard. it is an old house.

i am having a go for the first time at smoothing out a larder wall. the deepest differerence in depth is about 3/8 ". the walls are painted. how do i go about it and what plaster do i use. multi something, easy something, finishing stuff? see how well i am picking up spreaders...

curiosity.....a burning desire to increase my knowledge....i have learnt so much from answers given in these forums.

looking at getting old 4 way wylex fuse box replaced. this is fed with i would guess 16mm tails. also a two way fuse box feeding an electric shower also fed by 16mm tails. however, tails from the board fuse to meter look really small. would guess they may be single insulated but even so they...

what about using a collar for microbore pipe?

i have two double glazed upvc ventilator windows that have snapped hinges. the problem is these have been rivetted onto the window and frame. am i ok to drill the head off the pop rivet? will i then be trying to fix into what is left of the rivet? if i drill the rivet out will i have to use...

thanks steve and co. looks like a trip to the builders merchants for me. then need a man with a good float. thanks again you have been a good help.

thanxs again steve. what does "normal square edge board 121/2mm" mean? should it read 12mm? if so is "Knauf Plasterboard 2400 x 1200 12.5mm" the stuff i need as opposed to the 9.5mm board?

cheers and thanx for the advice. now for a stupid question! why is there tapered edge board? does that not need a skim just as square edged does?

dont really know what plaster nibs are? ceiling is flat enough but seems to be a little bit of movement where it meets the outside wall. if i plasterboard do i need to take polystyrene tiles off or can i plasterboard over the top?

i have removed the polystyrene tiles from the first of four rooms in an old house. once the tiles and paper were removed the cracks could be seen. mostly hairline with a couple of larger chunks out. the ceiling is made from lats. if i get the ceiling plastered should i board it first or just...

by unvented system i guess you mean a combi? so what sort of upgrading would it take? where should the 25mm pipe start and finish? i will let you tell me rather than me start guessing if thats ok.