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The toilet is in a 15yr old extension. And I do remember the council making a lot of visits to inspect the below ground level work, whilst in progress - as the extension was a downstairs bathroom for a disabled person. There is a boxed-in air admittance valve in the bathroom. It is positioned...

The water level in my downstairs wc pan is below the normal level - (accounting for the bend). This means that smelly air from the soil pipe / drains is coming up. When I flush, the level in the pan returns to normal - then goes down to a low level again. And occasionally makes a gurgling...

Yes, I know it's a cheap thing to replace. But when you buy something, you expect it to work within reason. And to the specifications - as advertised. Not to specs you are told later. And I didn't expect the salesman to start 'making-up' water regulations to fit in with what he'd sold. :shock...

BAHCO, as with bathjobby the valve came pre-fitted, so no extra bits. I've already taken the valve apart (see my old post //www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=25196&highlight= ). There isn't a removable 'cone' just a diaphram that uses water pressure to lift it. No dirt / limescale...

Didn't sound right to me too - hence the post. And the service valve is fully open, flushed before installing valve, no dirt in valve etc. The valve btw is a bottom entry plastic float valve. See my previous post for a pic: //www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=25196&highlight=...

I recently bought a new bathroom suite - installed okay. However, the toilet fill valve is very slow (5-10 mins fill time). It's gravity fed (2m head) not mains. As mentioned in an earlier post to this forum. My supplier tells me that it is against water by-laws to sell a new wc with a valve...

I did the take it to bits - how it works route. It seems that the valve uses the water pressure passing up its central core to 'lift' a diaphram, allowing water to pass back down an outer sleeve to the base of the valve - into the cistern. So it would seem that I do not have enough water...

I've just installed a new toilet. All works fine except the float valve (bottom entry) fills very slowly. Takes about 5 minutes. A small jet/trickle of water exits the small outlet at the top, but not much/nothing exits from the bottom of the valve - which is where I expected the majority of...

I think I will run the pipe outside then (so it cant be seen). And as i dont intend starting my own mushroom factory, will keep the bath/basin connected to the vertical stack. Thanks for the advice.

I'm moving the position of a wc horizontally by about 1 metre. Is the 'best practice' to run the horizontal (which i will incline at 2.5 deg) section of soil pipe inside or outside (outdoors) ? Or doesn't it matter ? Also can I place the bath & basin wastes into this horizontal run ? or...

Thanks. Looked at their website www.multikwik.com and found a suitable connector. Which will save me alot of hassle. Will have to order this tho - as nobody has the one I want in stock. Cheers

I am reconnecting my wc pan back to the original cast iron socket - which has a 3.5 inch internal pipe dia - flanging out to 5.5 inches - so can't use a push fit connector. The last time I did this I packed some nylon rope around the spigot of the pan and made a seal with Plumbers Mait. As...