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thanks MM - staples as in domestic stapler, or as in some sort of nail/tack? thanks for help

I'm going to cover an insulated dormer wall with a 500g VCM; can anyone tell me (a) how its first fixed to the studs and (b) how you fix the plasterboard over it - presumably the screws/nails penetrate the vcm and thus breach it? Or is that just accepted?

cheers Deluks

so, Deluks, using klober permo forte is the right way to go?

Can anyone explain to me the difference between breather paper and membrane - or are they the same thing? I'm using Klober permo forte for underlay on my pitched roof, and I had assumed that the breather membrane I would use on my dormer walls (cladding, 25x38 batten, breather membrane, 18mm...

Hi - anyone out there experience of these "Certainteed" products http://www.almuracladdings.co.uk/page4.html . I've seen them on some small and medium building plots; up close they look nice, and I'm presuming they batten fix as upvc. They look a bit classier, I think, but found some USA based...

yes, noseall the front face will be flush as you say; I agree with you about the sole plate and relative positions of the studs. Thanks very much

I haven't yet laid any, Nige - problem with 22mm chip board?

I'm designing a fairly standard dormer extension - all planned and approved, and I've been looking at how it will lay down on its sole plate over the existing wall plate / first floor floor joists (its an existing room in a bungalow with a gable end roof which I'm pushing out to the side. I'm...

mikric, noseall - thanks for the replies and I think you're right Mikric; yes, its coarse builders sand (having compared it to some Wickes builders sand). Feel a bit foolish but my paranoia got the better of me yesterday as it does every so often, making me ask daft questions. Must have been the...

The builder's sand I got from Bradfords seems quite coarse; I've used it to lay some 7N blocks, and although it doesn't feel as workable as finer sands I've used (quite a coarse surface and a few small stones) it all seems to go off OK. Is there fundamentally a problem with using sharp sand...

sorry Masona - don't quite understand that last bit about the T&G; does that relate to the difficulty of getting it up once in place; why the extra noggins?

I've seen suggestions that the sole plate of stud work on a first floor is either (a) set out and fixed after the floor boarding is down (in my case 22mm board) or (b) before the boarding is down ie onto the joists. I can see how (a) makes it easier work (assuming you remember where the...

again, thanks for the advice - cheers!

thanks for the links Noseall!

I took down the inner leaf to sill level as I was fitting a steel in that wall as well, and the block/brick was ribby. I had intended to cut the outer leaf, but carried on down from lintel level from inside when the brick courses came away. Thanks for the advice!

thanks Noseall; when wouldn't it be applicable to use battening?

Thanks. Any tips about the best sort of ties to use in this context please?

I'm installing a new window in a gable end (BC approved) and have done the inner leaf; have taken down the outer leaf and now want to build back up. I know there are a variety of replacement wall ties on the market, allowing you to insert (some with resin) the tie into the existing inner leaf...

Is there any rule of thumb that applies to whether you would use dot and dab to secure plaster board to a block wall, or use timber battens, or not use plaster board at all, and use render? I've got a couple of cracks that I'm confident I can repair with steel mesh, but if using plaster board...