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Sounds like it could be the diaphragm in the water pressure switch that is faulty. A friend of mine installed several of these boilers in a development and almost all had this problem at one time or another (including mine). I can't recall if when mine went it affected the CH or hot water, but...

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If it is being layed over a large area you will probably need expansion strips added. The manufacturer will have specs for each product and maximum run lengths before these shoud be added. If these are not added the combined minute expansion of each board will make the floor lift! The skirtings...

Don't replace with plastic windows would be my first tip! Do you mean you are replacing the whole window and frame or just the opening lights? Either way the double glazed units will weigh more than the original glass so you will need new, heavier sash weights. If a local joiner is making a new...

Do you have room to terrace the slope. In this way you would have several low retaining "walls" rather than one high wall. This is much easier to build - sleepers as you suggest could work or I used large stones and built a series of low walls using just the stones partially dug into the...

Ideally you would trace the cables back to the junction box and disconnect them there. The rad flow and return could be connected together or again you could trace them back and remove them completely - this will perhaps be more difficult and may cause more redecorating afterwards. It depends on...

Just a thought, but have you looked at the Velux range? Although they will probably not be a suitable window available you may find they produce a similar opening mechanism to the one you need.

The problem may be the weight of the windows/glass. You would need some kind of lifting mechanism to aid opening the windows and then keeping them up and not crashing down on your head! Have you tried plastic window firms as they sometimes have weird hinges - although I would always fit wood...

Are there two pipes feeding the rad? If so there will either be one at each end or two at one end going to a combined flow/return valve. The combined valves usually have a tube going from the valve body to the other end of the rad inside the rad - this was to help disperse water across the rad -...

I think you would be better to replace the post - the other options involve nearly as much work and cost and are not guaranteed to work. You may find that there isn't a massive amount of concrete in the ground and the existing post can be used a lever to help removal. Although it is heavy work I...

I have never painted alli but would imagine a special primer would be needed - International usually produce specialist paints so their website may be worth a look. Have a look at this or search on google for painting aluminium - or alumium as I believe they call it in America...

If after doing as suggested above the pressure drops again then you must have a leak somewhere. There is an overflow/vent pipe coming from the boiler usually to an outside wall - check to see if water is coming from this. It is a pressure relief valve and opens to stop the boiler going in to...

A point worth remembering is that hammering nails into a floor can have the side effect of removing plaster from the ceiling below - especially around the nails holding the plasterboard to the ceiling. I would be inclined to unscrew the boards and reposition/recut to make sure they join on a...

Hep20 do a "demountable" fitting that can be unscrewed to allow alterations - I read somewhere that the demountable copper was a bit poor, but I not had first hand experience of this.

You can either use low tack masking tape - the tack is always slightly more than needed though especially on fresh paint. Also corners of walls are hardly ever exactly square so positioning the tape can be a bit difficult. I always made the mistake of using a small brush thinking it would be...

I did my whole house - including central heating in Hep20 about 10 years ago and it was pretty easy. There are certain things to remember such as using bthe proper cutter for the pipe and the first metre or so of pipe from a boiler must be copper and not plastic - if you contact the...

I presume you are looking to waterproof the wall - in which case I wouldn't have thought it would work very well - something made for brick like Thomsons Waterseal or similar would be better and much easier to apply.

Do you mean an actual softener that uses salt crystals or one of the electromagnetic type gizmos that you wrap around you cold water pipe? If the latter I have heard a product called Scalewatcher is good. try this link for further info...

You will probably find that a lot of the marks are limescale. I have used a product called Stainex in the past - not sure about suitability on plastic so check the bottle. It was made my Mangers and was a viscous liquid that was painted on to sinks and taps to dissolve limescale. It may be worth...

I think it may depend on your machine as to whether it will pump the water up to the drain. My brother has his washing machine in the cellar and this arrangement seems to work OK. The easiest way to find out is to measure the distance the water will have to be pumped and extend your waste pipe...