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The first item looks ideal. I'll see if my local hire shops have one. Thanks, Rob.

Very helpful? I've got 4 options as far as I can see: 1. Knock the pillar down and re-build (~20 courses); 2. Angle grind 5mm out to recess the bracket housing the hinges; 3. Use an SDS drill & routing bit to take 5mm out; 4. Re-fabricate the bracket housing the hinges. I'm just...

Had some bespoke iron gates made in the past attached to a brick/mortar pillar. To cut a long story short an idiot backed into the post and knocked it down. I've built a new pillar but it's 5mm offset from the original leaving me with gates that won't close (overlap by 5mm only). The...

Hi There, I've just purchased a BAL WP1 Shower Tanking Kit. The instructions refer to the tape being used for joints and the matting being used for floors. I'm using the bath to capture the water so don't have a floor to line. Question is, because it's going onto bare plasterboard do I use...

Topps Tiles are a distributor of BAL stuff including WP1 (£69.99). It's probably closer to £50 if you search around mail order sites though.

Also, Worcester indicate the compartment should be BS 6798 compliant. All web searches lead me to the BSi website which charges £98 for the spec :shock:

Hi there, This thread (posted around the same time as yours) might add some more points for thought regarding location (and importantly regulations). //www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=58705 Rob

Makes good sense with the venting idea Tony. I'll probably do as you suggest but keep the vent at the bottom also to maintain Gas Safety Regs. Apart from having adequate air flow properties is there any special requirement of the vent itself? Height/Width/Material? Also, Just to be...

Thanks for constructive advise Tony. Just checked with the Worcester web resource and there are two configurations, both which have very differnt parameters (for vented/non-vented & door/no door). Thankfully, I'm well within the tollerances if I have a vented compartment. I think i'll...

I know this is quite common. Problem is I want to tile to the bathroom floor and have no skirting. What can I Use to fill the gap and create a good bonding surface for the tiles? Rough plaster the gap myself (my plastering skills are zero)? Or, Leave the void there (the tiles are...

I've recently built an airing cupboard around a Worcester 350. The cupboard construction is wood studding and plasterboard covering. There is good service access to the top, bottom and sides. There is a solid lockable wooden door on the front (it's in a bathroom). But, I've been told...

Thanks for the advice. Batten and board it is then.

Thanks for the advice guys. Usual 1930s stuff. Quite a few 135 degree corners in the rooms (again, hard to plaster internal corners straight). Keeping the deco theme going where possible by keeping the doors and bacolite handles etc. Cheers for the option Nige F. I may PM you when I get...

Thanks for the advice. With respect to the idea of ramping up could I lay the adhesive thicker in the lower parts and thinner in the high point to reduce the 1/2 inch height difference even more (to say 1/4 inch). I'm loathed to take the floor up as the bath is plumbed into place and the...

Before I start, great forum guys/girls. Here's my problem, I recently extended my bathroom by knocking down a stud wall and extending further into a bedroom. As expected, the floor joist holding the stud was reinforced (3 joists together). The problem is that it was 1/2 inch higher than...

It's a completely smooth 90 degree arc from the wall to the ceiling. The arc begins about 8 inches from the ceiling. The whole of the upstairs is done this way. A 1930s design style I guess? It would be interesting to know how it was originally done.

I have a 1930s house that has integral wall to ceiling coving. By this I mean that there is a gradual curve with no exposed lip to but the skimmed plaster up to. None of the plasterers I've spoken to (3 so far) say they can repair or re-skim it (being too difficult). They recommend adding a...

Hi there, I've moved a loft hatch from the bathroom (stupid place) to the hall. When I say 'moved', the old hatch is still in the bathroom, accompanied by a very tatty plaster boarded ceiling. Question is this: Do I batten (1 inch) over the existing mess and lay fresh board on top for...

Just had a new oak door delivered which will be fitted to the front of the house over the next couple of weeks. The frame is large and incorporates the glass side panel frame too. It's original and we want to keep it if possible and replace the glass panels with a bespoke glass design...

Probably be shot down in flames here but I've always used T-Cut (for car paintwork). Looks like new afterwards even if it's heavily marked. Done it every spring for ~10 years. I guess the downside is that T-Cut wil remove the smooth surface a little and attract more grime to stick in the...