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yes tony thats what i was thinking its a health authority building,the rig was fitted by an outside firm and i cant find any paperwork.ive got one boiler up and running to heat the building and ill get on to the person responsible for the building to chase keston and the paperwork.

and it also leaks like a seive from the left and right hand heat exchanger covers when condensing (traps clear).

anyone had any problems with the keston c40,ive just had two fans go on a prefabricated rig both impellars had detatched from the shafts and one of the boards had blown.i noticed the impellar design had changed on the new ones.the boilers are just over two years old.

yes something along those lines.

assuming the hot and cold supplys are both from the tanked supply you shouldnt have any real pressure differential.try disconnecting the flexi hoses from the boost pump the washers have a fine gauze inside it sounds like you have a blockage on the hot.

im thinking of fitting a wire free digistat to replace a conventional wired stat and timer on an open vented system ,am i right in thinking i would also need to fit a timer to control the hot water on/off times or can this be set on the digistat?

ive used 22mm olives wrapped in ptfe on 3/4 in the past but had a bad experience a few years ago.left a 22mm iso valve on a mains supply into a basement boiler room of a health centre ,came back the next morning to find 3 boilers half submerged in water.ive always used 3/4 olives since!

im assuming the pipe is the old imperial 3/4 which is smaller than 22mm and therefore you would need a 3/4 olive which you can buy separate.

yes, a 22mm valve will fit if you use a 3/4 olive.

just a quick update on the ariston p.c.b. i took it out and gave it to one of our medical electronics engineers to check out, most of the capacitors on the board where not functioning correctly.he changed them all and it works fine! total cost about £2.

as long as you get the correct fall down to the stack you should be o.k.

you could try stripping down the ceramics and giving the surfaces a clean with tooth paste.ive had this problem with ceramic taps before and its near impossible to get spares to fit.

you do have to use quite a lot of ptfe to seal the threads but not too much as i did split a radiator once! you could try ptfe and some jointing paste such as boss white.

thats correct ,it is in my own house thats why i want to be 100% sure its down to the pcb before i part with my own hard earned! i will register with admin and re post later ,cheers.

the boiler is 2 1/2 years old,and i am a registered gas installer.i work mainly on large industrial sized boilers but i am also registered for domestic.the boiler is in my own house and i was wondering if anyone has come across this problem with the ariston before a splash out on a new circuit...

having problems with an ariston microgenus 24. the ignitor still tries to light intermittently even though the flame is established,it also locks out sometimes with fault a 01(flame failure). i've changed the flame probe and checked the lead and circuit board connection .i'm now looking at...

you can get dye but milk is just as good and a lot cheaper!

you could isolate one rad slacken one side and drain some water out then unscrew the 1/2" cap from the top of the rad and carefully pour the cleaner in with a funnel.i've used a 15 mm compression elbow a short piece of copper and a 15-22mm reducer.remove one nut from the elbow and screw into the...

try restricting the flow to the shower,remove the head and replace the hose washer with a 1/2" tap washer.the shower could be drawing too much water and the boiler can't cope you would need to measure the flow rate and the temp of the incoming water then consult the boiler literature.

check the end of the tap there should be a plastic insert try pulling it out or pushing it in a little,apart from that there isnt much you can do its just the design of the tap.some taps have a gauze on the end and this aireates the water to stop it splashing.