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It's the 22m rule that is the problem. The actual building is fine, just the use of the room which is at fault. I could have exactly the same layout and windows and use it as a bathroom no problem but when I want to call it a bedroom I can't make it. If it were already a bedroom there would...

There is a house opposite, exactly 21.9m away. You can't have a 1st floor window less than 22m without it being frosted unless the window opposite is already frosted. I plan on building to 2.72m out or 19.18m away.

Rear technically although there is a road behind the hosue.

I did think about that but discarded it as the window will be double glazed and there is a reasonable possibility that there would be firemen below it.

I checked with building regs people (who were extremely helpful and fast) and they confirmed that a key in a 'break glass' box is acceptable for Egress requirements. In case you wonder why, planning have specified that a window must be non-opening to avoid privacy issues with neighbours and I'm...

For future reference, I got in touch with Building Control who were exceedingly fast in replying. While this is largely how the conversation went, ask specifically for yourself should you need it.

Is it permissable to lock an escape window and put the key behind a 'break glass' for key to escape?

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... unless there is some kind of "break in case of fire" window latch that could only be used as a fire escape. I could then put a clear opening window at 1.7m and that should be fine ... I think. Is there such a thing?

Thanks Tony, you are right. Planning explicitly state that the window must not open but building regs state that it must. Looks like I'll just have to change my plans.

She didn't say but she did say that building regs was not their department as planning was about neighbours and aesthetics. Thanks for your reply, it helps a lot. If I can find out the exact problem it may help fjnd a solution! As it happens, whilst writing this post it has crossed my mind...

I've planned an extension and I'm very happy with it. I spoke to the council today at the pre-application advice centre and they said all seems fine except it is unlikely I'd get permission for a bedroom with a frosted glass window and being nearly 20m from a neighbour it would have to be. The...

It is anchored 3ft deep in concrete. Not sure how deep in the tree is enough but I think 600mm should be fine if it is a tight fit. Will need jubilee clips to prevent it splitting.

You don't think at 30mm steel post is stronger than a tree?

I'm not sure that the above idea would be strong enough, it would concentrate all the forces to the top of the pole and create a weak point so I've changed my mind Thinking outside the box I've decided that because the post is hollow my best option is to cut it off and concrete a narrower post...

Thanks for all the sugestions! My current plan is to cut a 'collet' shap into the bottom, i.e. 1" slots in a cross shape. I can then remove the inner rings with a chisel/knife and hopefully clamp the whole thing to the post with jubilee clips. Not the best method and a bit ugly but so far the...

That's my problem, trying to find one avout the right size in the uk.

Yeah thought about that but not sure it will be possible after a few inches deep. It does seem like the best option so far as the centre bit should follow a whole and keep it straight.

A bi-metal hole saw can't cut deep enough.

I have a post in the garden, 500mm high and 60mm diameter. I'd like to drill a matching hole in the bottom of a christmas tree so I can put it on the post. What is the best way to drill the hole? I figured a centre hole that a larger bit could follow would be best but there is little choice...