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These hinges were fitted to Profile 22 doors many years ago. They can be adjusted a certain amount by using a small allen key where I have drawn the black arrow. The red arrow shows the piece covering the adjusting screw which when turned 90 degrees can be removed if needed, but you shouldn't...

Hopefully he will turn up, remove the glass without a fuss and check that the drainage holes are present and working correctly. Then follow Cranks advice regarding sealing the corners. This is straightforward and should only take a few minutes. Have you noticed any water seeping in from around...

Makes a mockery of it. I wonder whether Certass will follow suit. This articles got it about right. http://www.doubleglazingblogger.com/2015/05/fensa-launch-pay-as-you-go-scheme/

Is the installation totally finished or have they got the trimming and sealing still to do?

Looks like a profile 22 door. These flag hinges have 3 adjustments using allen keys. As Gazman said the adjustment on the underside of the hinge simply moves the door sash up or down a bit. If you remove the top round cap there is another adjustment which moves the door sash a little bit in 4...

The bottom screw in your picture screws the lock to the door. The star shaped one above it is one of about 4 that secure the lock to the gearbox, so the one that you have removed would be the one that holds the barrel lock in place. As you are aware there is nothing stopping the lock sliding out...

Agreed with Gazman. The only other possible adjustment you might have on those hinges would be on top of the hinge pin which requires using a small allen key. The top shoot bolt can be adjusted. Not certain about the bottom one. Any chance of a closer photo of the bottom half of the lock...

If the door is meant to have a cill then ideally it should have concealed drainage. However having face drainage instead won't alter the performance of the door at all. I wouldn't worry about it. Being a front door in an extension I take it nothing has been stated about it having to have a...

My father in law had a similar problem to this. The wall under his lounge window was always damp and had been like it for many years. When I looked at it in the summer I soon realised that the face drainage holes had been added as an afterthought, hence my question earlier (they were just a few...

Looking at your second picture I can't clearly see the drain holes in the bottom of the door frame. However they must be there if water is draining out from under the drain caps on the outside of the frame. I'm just wondering if the door was originally meant to sit on a plastic cill, which would...

After removing the screw all you need to do now is turn the key until the tab lines up vertically and the cylinder should slide out. It often helps to take the handles off, but being a thumb turn this may not be possible with the internal handle. Try to at least loosen the handle screws a...

I assume the installation is complete. If not are there any gaps around the edge of the frame that need trimming, sealing etc. Did they use expanding foam? Does the new window have trickle vents that could be letting a bit more noise through? Any chance you could post a couple of photos of the...

Thanks for the link to that thread Ronniecabers. Did raise a smile reading through that :)

In none of your examples are you actually removing the water vapour that is causing the condensation. Water vapour in your home is created by very simple things.....Breathing, cooking, baths, showers etc. If water vapour is trapped in your house it WILL condensate on any Cold point. The only...

One of our customers has a door like this on his old conservatory. Out of habit I usually lift the handle up and the first time I was working at his house I did this only to find I couldn't get back in again! He explained that as soon as the handle is lifted the door is automatically locked...

Condensation forms on the coldest surface in a room which often means the old windows. In your case Typonaut the metal frames will probably be colder than the glass, hence you get condensation on the frames and not the glass. Fitting new energy efficient windows does help but as JohnD says...

To be honest I always recommend using a reputable local company to supply and fit them. Let them deal with all the relevant regulations, certificates and warranties etc. However if you are determined to have a go yourself it wouldn't be a bad idea to ask your local company for a supply only...

Hi Everyone, Been a visitor to this forum for a while. Thought it was time I joined. My experience concerning the MTC card. When I was first made aware of this I must admit I was none to keen on the idea (more money for nothing) but slowly began to realise that it may be a good thing after...