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Further to an earlier post. If I buy a cheap Dab or Wilo pump would it be noisier than a new grundfos? The pump is right over my lounge (bungalow) so this is an important issue to me. Thinking of changing to system boiler in the spring so would like to keep cost down on pump.

I'd been looking at Gloworm 24hxi or Vaillant ecoMax pro 28E both regular boilers. I live in a bungalow so your comments about living on three floors are interesting. Do I need to have my system pressure tested or such like to see if it's OK for a system boiler or should it be OK? Will get...

I'm going to replace a very aged boiler in the spring. Currently have fully pumped, vented system. As a rule of thumb and assuming my pipework is OK would I be best to upgrade to a system boiler or stick with a like for like regular boiler. I'm asking now because I'm going to change the...

Just found out Grundfos now do an "A" rated Alpha Pro but they're way more expensive. Don't think I'll get my money back on electric savings with that. Will get an Alpha+ just whether to get 15-50 or 15-60 version. Any advice on 5m or 6m head pumps for bungalow appreciated.

After my previous posts I'm going to change the pump (Grundfos 15-50). Went down my Mums and looked at hers and it sounds and feels different, as though it is actually working. Mine just humms and has a mellow vibration, hers feels like it's pumping. I have 8 rads in bungalow and 6 have TRV's...

I have a some dead legs too where I assume a rad once hung. I'd think it would be fine to flush the system there, it hadn't occured to me though. What do you think ChrisR?

With DHW on or off I'd say the CH pipe from zone valve was hot but no expert to say if it's hot enough. The zone valves are certainly doing their duty anyway. I know I'm very inexpert but gut feeling tells me to change pump on basis I think this one is getting on a bit anyway.

I've got 2 x 2 port valves

JohnD_ Both top corners are heating but the cold area is a full pyramid from bottom corners to practically top middle. One 2200mm rad has no more than an A4 size hot area in each top corner. The same was true in the bathroom untill I opened the lockshield by a turn and it heated fully...

Will try a drill and driver bit in it tomorrow and see what happens. As I said 2 rads are hot and the rest have hot tops only apart from the end 2 which are cold. Can't even open the lockshields any more. I know 50 quid is 50 quid but think a new pump would be a good thing to try.

I know I've had other posts about my system but this is a fairly straight question. If a pump is slowing down or not working will the CH and DHW either work or partially work as though on a gravity system or would the rads fail to heat at all. I'm seriously thinking of getting a new pump...

Thanks JohnD and Trevor. I'd contemplated undoing that nut but didn't fancy a soaking unless I knew it was the head release. Have taken the head of one of the coldest and the pin has around 3mm of movement and returns fine. Would this be an indication it's working OK? Rad not getting...

PiperPete, I'm going to change them all for drayton TRV 4's when I get to it but looking for confirmation I have circulation really at the moment. So you think it unlikey that the head will even come off these? I have 2 rads without TRV's at moment to provide the free flow, this will be...

Hi, Further to an earlier similar thread I hope someone can help resolve my CH issues. To start with does anyone recognise the TRV below and if so do you know how to get the TRV head off? Further to the rest of my original post, below, could it be these TRV's that are only...

The 2200 doubles don't get fully heated anyway, just the top corners. I really feel this is a flow problem though rather than a rad 90% full of sludge. I'll change all these old unknown TRV's for Drayton TRV 4's and see how they work. Could it be the TRV's are knackered and preventing the flow...

Now it's obvious that I'm no heating engineer or I wouldn't be asking advice on here. If I change my pump could I buy a higher capacity one or am I up against the boiler keeping up then? Ideal W RS 450 Output 40,000 to 50,000 btu Input 52,900 to 65,400 btu. The boiler will be changed next...

I've just had exactly the same in my bathroom and just finished it this week. Ripped out a delightful old avocado suite with a low level WC discharging to soil pipe through the floor. Also did away with the horrible unsightly collar affair filled with mortar to seal pan pipe and pushed rubber...

hI Already posted for help after having a boiler airlock which is now OK. I have a 30 year old system (fully pumped - vented CH) with a 17 year old boiler and suffer cold bottom rads (2 x 2200mm double each with saucer sized warm areas in top corners and that's it, all others as bad)...

Chris, Thanks for the help last night. Went to the loft standpipe vents this morning and they bled straight through and the system is now ticking alog with boiler on low for another couple of hours. Why it wouldn't bleed last night I don't know but there we go.

Answers why I also found a strong bit of wire nearby too then, must be a usual problem. I inherited this system a few months back so it's all new to me. So just need to drain the F&E below the drain tails effectively, not the system? Auto vents sound great but will probably leave the drain...