Hey guys, I'm replacing kitchen tap and the earth bonding wires are connected to the tap tails which will be replaced with the flexi hose of the new tap, so what should I now connect the bonding wires to as all the remaining pipes are plastic?
I've attached a pic of what im talking about.
From...
HI noseall, not sure if you saw my comment but I have a question about the image you posted if you have time to answer.
The black uprights in the pic, they're attached to the back of the wall, not concreted in to the ground? Are they wood are steel? And I'm guessing you've had no issues with...
Oh really? sorry I couldn't tell from the pictures. Can you tell me more about it?
So the black uprights at the back, they're attached to the back of the wall, not concreted in to the ground? Are they wood are steel? And I'm guessing you've had no issues with wind load?
No not really. Like I said the wall is 1.4m high and the frame is attached to the wall, not concreted in the ground, hence my starting this thread about wind load on a frame protruding 0.6m above the wall its attached too.
Back garden, ginnel view I should say and yeah planning is fine. The wall is rendered on the exterior, connected to the house so a fence will be more visually pleasing than a climber.
yeh tanalised and spaced of the wall with a washer.
I’m only worried about the 0.6m above the wall for wind load that’s why I thought the separate structure would act as a wind break for the living wall. But do you think I even need it for 60cm if height. Could I get away with just battening...
Hey guys, I'm planning to attach a living wall structure to an existing brick wall and would like to check that I'm not overlooking anything. I've attached a rough diagram of what I'm thinking.
the wall is structurally sound, double skin, 1.4m high, 10m long.
The living wall will be made of...
I never thought to do this but it makes a lot of sense, although the top of the roof is perfectly flat with no variation, almost like this one joist is thicker in the middle. Is it common to have slight unevenness on the underside or is it just shoddy workmanship/ subpar timbers?
About a year ago I replaced my garage roof with a new flat roof. As far as I know I used the correct timbers for the 3.6m unsupported span - 45x175mm on 400mm centres with 1 row of noggins. The static load is about 0.25kn per sqm.
I’ve just finished plaster boarding and noticed a pronounced bow...
Hot tub is 1.6x1.6m so the water weight will be about 2.5 tonnes plus the actual tub, so approaching 3 tonnes :eek:
Plus the aforementioned fitties/fatties!
That's also why I was considering placing the whole frame on the ground rather than using posts as it is a ground deck, I actually have...
Hi guys, just looking to double check my deck subframe, I’m planning to put a hot tub on it.
Image attached.
The whole thing is constructed from 50x150mm treated timber and about 100mm off the ground.
The red lines are the bearers 50mm x 150mm timbers spaced 1.6m apart resting on uprights...
I'm sure this has been posted but after searching through all the archives i'm still a little unsure.
I'm building a ground level deck 3x6m in a yard surrounded by 4 brick walls, the ground is currently just mud and clay soil under that. I'm just a little unsure of the footings, mainly because...
I'm definitely putting straps in (from the joists, over the frame and connecting to the brick), just wasn't sure of the best way to connect the frame to the brick as well.