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Don't skim it... for starters a 4 week wait to tile (for good reason) and it reduces the load bearing capacity from 32kg to 20kg on plasterboard.

Why not replace the ply with something better such as Jackoboard, Wedi or Hardiebacker? Pays dividends in the long run as wood + moisture = no fun.

Maybe a dividing trim if the main tiles have rectified edges? A box trim of the right thickness would cup over the trim just enough to bury a dodgy cut.

+1 for this method. Or maybe time to break out the carpentry skills and box it in to avoid the cut ;)

Yes, 6mm NMP is fine for walls but if it's anything like the several boards I've had experience with, it won't be suitable onto studwork which is what I'm assuming the OP has :)

Okay... Whilst yes, doubling up WOULD give you 12mm, the tiled surface is only as strong as the immediate background so in this case, 6mm NMP, which whilst it may be fairly solid to the eye, it may have a lot of vertical and lateral movement that we cannot see. The reason it is recommended to...

Norcros Standard Set?

Honestly, some of the things I come across on the retail side of it are... shocking. B&Q nearby are recommending 6mm plywood and their ready mix floor adhesive for 30x60 porcelain from the last time I checked them out so even the DIY world is getting the brown end of the stick. The upside to...

Unfortunately, the plaster is the weak point. The moment you apply plaster coatings, it reduces the weight load of the substrate to 20kgs. Please don't tell me that you used ready mix over the tanking though..... I've seen that a few too many times and wish it was clearer on adhesive packaging.

Honestly mate, your lucky the adhesive set but at the end of the day, it's set :) . Could it of possibly been the 15L BAL Grip tub? Grip was a 7.5m2 tub. That stuff was essentially bulletproof.

What kind of screed was used? If it was Calcium Sulfate/Anhydrite then the lot will probably pop. Sounds like poor prep on the floor to me. Regarding the refits, you have the nail on the head. SBR - Bal Max Flex (Topps sell a 5kg) - Grout.

Tank it or use Wedi Board. I honestly have no idea why people think that plasterboard is good in showers....

At least he's back to fix it... I think. If you have any more doubts then throw them back here :) Just watch for posts that sound like an absolute crock.

You shouldn't apply anything with Portland Cement in it for a minimum of 4 weeks over plaster mate. Runs the risk of ettringite failure but if you can find a tanking kit that runs without Portland, then that would be okay. You'd be wasting money and time giving it a mist coat. If anything...

Dunlop is made by BAL but uses slightly lower quality materials in manufacture BUT it is a good & cheap alternative. Your guy is bang on. For what it's worth, you will have to use powder as 30x60 porcelain cannot be fitted by ready mix/dispertion adhesive.

HELL NO! I sell White Star Plus for the company I work for. It is NOT suitable. It cannot be used to fix porcelain over 15x15 or ceramics over 30x30 and I have no clue how you managed to get 8m2 out of one tub. From experience and testing by manufacturer, you can't get much more than 5.5 - 6m2.

Wickes simply sell ****e materials. Get a decent brand name. Mapei is a bit ropey but better than the unibond quality crud in BnQ. If money is no object then pick up Kerakoll Biogel or BAL Rapid One/Rapid Fibre. And no, don't wet the tile. The moisture in the biscuit could, in theory, cause...

Try ebay mate. Not sure of any brands personally but most stuff can be found on ebay at a good price.

Either use hardie or rip up the existing ply and put down 18mm. If you put 6mm down on top then your floor will fail as 6mm is incredibly unstable due to warping between the centres which causes hollow spots.

You can't. Ceramic tiles are non porous so don't waste your money. And stop bleaching them! Bleach is killing your floor quicker than dirt will.