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because if it DID turn out to be possible, it would save me £10! and wasting 20kg of tile addy

i have got a load of tile adhesive left over from a job. Can i get away with using it to dot and dab plasterboard to brick? Obvs the normal thing to do would be use plasterboard adhesive but seems like they are fairly similar products. Reckon it might work??

that is one option, but i would prefer it if water sheds away from the wall all together, so that it the drain can't go wrong again in the future

yes , there's not a lot i can do about that . But at the moment the yard drains toward the wall where there is a drain right next to the wall which is basically not working, so water seeps through the wall. As a first step I want to block off this drain and send the water elsewhere, away from...

what do you mean?

my kitchen wall is a retaining wall above which there is a small concreted yard. At the moment the yard slopes toward the kitchen, I need to resurface it so that it sheds away from the wall. Will a "normal" mix of 1:2:4 do, or should i be looking at a stonger mix eg. 1:1.5:2.5 to get more...

like i say, they were proper soakers

no it was proper metal soakers. I assume they are aluminium, don't know what else non-lead soakers would be made of

ok thanks

this is before finishing coat. Aluminium soakers underneath

I'm having the roof of my ground floor kitchen re done. Where the pitched roof of the kitchen meets the wall of the house, instead of stepped flashing, the roofer has put mortar flaunching: mortar sat on a bell bead lapping over the soakers. I've never seen this before and to me it doesn't look...

Another cavity tray question I am blocking up an external doorway, brick with insulated cavity. Floor level and ground level are the same. Since the cavity doesn't extend 225 below floor level, I guess I need a cavity tray and weep vents. What does BR have to say about cavity trays? can i use...

what things to check? what precautions?

On one of my joists i reckon i can feel a 10mm gap. It might only be small, but if there's a gap then the bricks are not being directly supported. If they were to drop, and close that gap, that would be bad. Wouldn't it?

I often hear of people putting accrows under first floor joists that run into a wall in order to support the upper part of that wall. But is that a sound way of doing it? How do I know that the brickwork sits directly on top of the joists, there could be a gap between joist top and next course...

so what is the best way to tank AND insulate? If it's vented or drained , isn't that a way for moisture to get behind the insulation from the inside and form interstitial condensation? I should add that the wall has had 15mm of extruded polystyrene insulation and plaster on it for 20 years...

The back wall of my kitchen is a retaining wall. I currently have it exposed brick / render and am about to insulate and plasterboard it, 50mm PIR / PUR. I'm thinking I should tank the wall: it feels pretty dry but there is soil / rubble / who knows what behind it up to 2m height and we have had...

I will be blocking off an external doorway to my kitchen with blocks and cavity, tied to the abbutting wall with crocodile type wall ties. A few questions: I guess it's normal to have the outer leaf brick, but can i get away with doing both leaves in block, if it's in a sheltered situation and...

I am removing a 2m section of cavity load bearing wall and fitting pair of rsj's. The first floor joists butt into the wall above where i'm planning to open out. I've been told i need to support the joist ends to take weight off the wall, as well as supporting the wall with needles or strongboys...