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damp and water / moisture ingress

Obviously aware of that now Please can any replies be helpful as regards a solution as opposed to what should have happened

Extension with double skin wall, concrete blockwork on outer skin. Side wall of extension couldn't be rendered completely due to restricted access The neighbours have a single extension...and between the walls is an 12" - 18" gap , if that. How can i protect the concrete blocks ? Someone said...

continuous over facia vents (& breathable roof felt)... is foam backed p/board out with little gain?

New wrap around side extension with: Pitched roof (breathable felt on rafters /standard ceilings joists) Double skin/ insulated wall/new floor etc etc What are my options as regards insulation to the 'attic' / void ? will have inspection hatch , storage very limited if at all foam backed...

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Ok let’s start again …. On the outer side of the two pitched sides of the roof is plywood, vapour barrier , 120 celotex, plywood , Sarnafil So that’s my warm roof . All I’m checking on is the requirements by the eaves and on the overhang by the triangular glazing , in terms of stopping cold air...

New kitchen extension which has pitched warm roof. Do I just need to 'celotex off' between each rafter to stop cold air coming in ?? (as ceilings will just be boarded- no insulation req ) Also above glazing a similar scenario ?? see pics second image is where eaves are shut off due to box gutter

New single storey side extension (wc/ utility & office) with tiled pitched roof (inc breathable membrane/felt) with rafters & ceiling joists So small void /storage area potentially all be it small, and insulation is priority Double skin (Con. blocks, cavity insulation , Fenlite Con blocks,)...

Thanks for your replies But isn’t there insulation that is more compact that has better u value rating.?? Therefore 75mm of it would equal your standard 100mm cellotex rating. This is the specific question I’m asking ?

House renovation with new extension New Floor / oversight on new extended room Replacement floor on existing part of house , with new oversight /membrane. Floor being hacked up Underfloor heating within new screed on all ground floor on one level Assuming Finished floor levels are correct and...

~Vaulted kitchen asymmetric roof single storey extension ~Block work with cavity supporting Catnic type RSJ ~Bespoke glazing (2 x triangular) on RSJ ~Sliding doors under RSJ ~Ali cladding C section over external of RSJ My concern pre door/glazing install is the detail on the RSJ with the...

This flange though this needs to stick to the EPDM?

I have a "classic bond' once piece EPDM roof I need to install an Ubbink extract ventilator through the roof. The base of this ventilator kit has a EPDM flange- Looks as if is supposed to be heat welded Can I seal / fix this any other way on the existing EPDM without using heat??

Thanks to all that have responded. Useful information. An electrician will be consulted and on board , was just trying to evaluate things with groundwork etc really, ahead of the game. I'll get a design size/calc done as advised

HI what size & type of cable is required if putting sub mains to an annexe & a garage . The main house is on external meter box Garage & annexe to have their own supply and consumer unit fed back from just before the house internal consumer unit (so all metered from main meter) Not sure what...

Thanks guys really appreciate your advice so promptly too

Fair play re plug - just trying simplify the 1st fix really to avoid a surface box could I run from the 32a dp switch : 1x 6mm to single outlet plate for hob 1 x 2.5mm to a socket for oven to plug into

so can I cut the plug off and connect into the plate with the oven ?