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thanks @blup! but what would be the cause of the sound, the pipe hitting the boxing as it vibrates? should the insulation go both around the pipe and the walls of the boxing?

Hi all, I have recently had major works done in my flat, with walls and partitions being removed and redone because of previous damage. following this the soil stack has gone way louder than it was before, it makes a bad knocking sound as if something is banging from behind the wall whenever...

thanks a lot I can hear its actually doing something now.

thanks Andy you are correct this is not something I normally deal with, I did ask them to return but unfortunately this being the weekend.. it does seem straighforward and thanks for clarifing, all this time I thought we were referring to the wires connecting to the timer unit, those are the...

so connect the red wire that was in terminal #2 to the #1 instead? btw I left it overnight with only the #1 connected but same thing, no hot water. and I'm not sure whats the terminal #3, its not listed in the wiring schematic?

so I've removed the wire on #1, the timer is on override always on. it shows to be powered and on from its LEDs without fuse issues, but 3 hours later I can't tell much of a difference in terms of water temperature, I'm not sure if I'm missing something here. is the insulating connector...

according to the manufacturer standing heat loss would be 1.25 kwh/day at 65C, probably slightly higher due to loss on pipes but yeah, even assuming the cost of electricity will ramp up quite a bit in the next few years its likely not going to be a massive difference. the timer was around £30.

because I didn't really know which forum had the most users and was looking to solve this the quickest, I was going to delete the redundant thread but it turns out they don't allow you to.

I see thanks Andy, I figured the boost function of the one I've got would have worked the same way?

@john, how comes? its white, brand new.

@john shouldn't it be cheaper to have it turn on a couple of hours a day before we have our showers rather than have it on all the time?

perfect thank so much! so in order to figure out which I'm unplugging, I guess if the topmost element is on, it should heat up quickly but also not give out much hot water?

no we don't have an off peak meter, the fuse is located in a separate a power switch that feeds the timer:

ah right, makes sense thanks!

@ Harry, brilliant thanks so much!! is there any way to figure out which is which? and just to understand, how come I should have the shorter element connected rather than the longer one in my case?

@CBW sorry I don't really know if its powering both or if it was, before there was a switch like this

Thanks Harry, we don't have a dual meter so we wouldn't be taking advantage of having the 2 elements. which is also the reason why I wanted to have a timer so its not on all the time. anyway how would I go about fixing this? (again as a total newbie and even if temporarily so I can get some hot...

thanks for the help Flameport! I'm a bit of a newbie and not sure if this is what you're asking but the label shows: 2 x 3kW @ 240Vac 50HZ 2 x 2.8kW @ 230Vac 50HZ

Hi, we've recently had a timeguard NTT03 timeswitch installed to an immersion heater that was always on, but the fuse (13A) keeps blowing after maybe an hour or so and I'm not sure why, do this connections look about correct to you? thanks in advance.