fuse blows after installing timeswitch

[SUNRAY]

Ahhhh, ye cannae tamper with the rules of physics, Captain.

Assuming the markings on the kettle are correct it seems I just did

I don't think my post #41 guess was too far out.

Getting back to the workshop cylinder (now guessing 100L ish) 1h/day was more than enough for 2-3 peoples hand washing and occasional other bits of washing up.

 

[SUNRAY]

Ahhhh, ye cannae tamper with the rules of physics, Captain.

Assuming the markings on the kettle are correct it seems I just did

I don't think my post #41 guess was too far out.

Getting back to the workshop cylinder (now guessing 100L ish) 1h/day was more than enough for 2-3 peoples hand washing and occasional other bits of washing up.

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

so I've removed the wire on #1, the timer is on override always on. it shows to be powered and on from its LEDs without fuse issues,
but 3 hours later I can't tell much of a difference in terms of water temperature, I'm not sure if I'm missing something here. is the insulating connector necessary?
I'm trying plugging 1 back and removing 2, it might be too early to tell but doesn't seem to be doing much either..

Try swapping the two brown wires over, the one in your insulating connector, for the one connected to terminal #1.

 

[mm82]

Try swapping the two brown wires over, the one in your insulating connector, for the one connected to terminal #1.

so connect the red wire that was in terminal #2 to the #1 instead?

btw I left it overnight with only the #1 connected but same thing, no hot water.

and I'm not sure whats the terminal #3, its not listed in the wiring schematic?

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

so connect the red wire that was in terminal #2 to the #1 instead?

btw I left it overnight with only the #2 connected but same thing, no hot water.

and I'm not sure whats the terminal #3, its not listed in the wiring schematic?

NO! You have two brown wires, one you insulated and tucked out of the way, the other was connected to the unit - simply swap the positions of those two and see what difference that makes.

 

[AndyPRK]

Hi,


View attachment 252169 View attachment 252170

Please ensure the OP has hot water before other issues are discussed.

It's the 2 brown at the top right of the picture.
There should only be one brown wire in the terminal

 

[SUNRAY]

Hi,

we've recently had a timeguard NTT03 timeswitch installed to an immersion heater that was always on,
but the fuse (13A) keeps blowing after maybe an hour or so and I'm not sure why,
do this connections look about correct to you?
thanks in advance.
View attachment 252169 View attachment 252170

Having reread the thread I gather it was not you who installed the time switch and, without being rude or condescending, your electrical capabilities are quite limited.
This should be a straightforward solution but you are struggling.

I believe you should have asked the person who fitted this to return and sort it out.
However I'll point you to the place being mentioned:
These are the 2 brown wires being referred to

Good luck.

 

[mm82]

thanks Andy you are correct this is not something I normally deal with, I did ask them to return but unfortunately this being the weekend..

it does seem straighforward and thanks for clarifing, all this time I thought we were referring to the wires connecting to the timer unit, those are the ones I was disconnecting. doh!


ok so start again.

reconnect everything to the timer like it was at the beginning.
then remove one of the brown wires from the place you highlited, insulate it and try again. correct?

 

[AndyPRK]

yes correct

 

[mm82]

thanks a lot I can hear its actually doing something now.

 

[AndyPRK]

If you find in the future that you don't get much hot water from a tank, then try connecting up the other brown wire instead

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

If you find in the future that you don't get much hot water from a tank, then try connecting up the other brown wire instead

If the water heater is the only large load, he could compare by noting his meter readings for a full, from cold, tank.

 

[AndyPRK]

not sure I completely follow. I could understand the kettle calculations though.

Note, there is only 0.2KW difference between the elements

 

[SUNRAY]

not sure I completely follow. I could understand the kettle calculations though.

Note, there is only 0.2KW difference between the elements

Heat rises.

2 elements in a cylinder, one at top, other at bottom.The thermostats are with the heaters (different arrangements exist)

Top element will heat the top of the cylinder quickly and the top thermostat will stop heating the water when it reaches temp, but as the hot water doesn't fall, only the top ¼ or so of the tank will be hot.

The bottom element will heat the water at the bottom which will rise. Bottom thermostat will do the same thing but the hot water 'escapes' from the heater to the top so it doesn't operate until the whole cylinder is hot, this obviously takes a lot longer and threfore will cost more.
Temp at the top will rise above the thermostat temp a little, on large cylinders (especially short fat versions) this is often counteracted by installing a destratification device (external or internal pump) which basicaly circulates the hot water at the top down to the bottom.

 

[aptsys]

No insulation is perfect so it will start cooling down and switch on again. If you are not in during the day it is better to time if off when you leave and on again shortly before you get back.

There will likely only be minimal savings by doing so since there is always heat loss from the cylinder until it matches room temperature. If you leave it off until just before you get back, you still need to replace that lost energy.