Search results

What about a strimmer?

I understand that a cement mixer / shovel mixing is the way to go, but can I use this method instead.... 1. Fill tall bucket with predetermined amount of water, 2. Add predetermined amount of cement slowly whilst mixing with a paddle mixer, 3. Add predetermined amount of sand / gravel slowly...

Will give the customer the heads up on Wednesday (y)

Aye but the gap between the 2 panes of glass plays a very important role too. Just can't see it making much more difference to just standard moisture board and tiled.

33"

Bahhh for fook sake didn't realise that {>.<}...

Yes as above seal the worktop with clear silicone first. Would be able to offer advice on fittings if you took a picture of the pipework under your sink, without that, it's just a guess.

Seems like overkill, have you considered ear plugs?

Ahh very funny but the joke is on all you guys, I said "make" not "name" haha!

Why don't you just set the timer on the front of the boiler to turn the heating on and off at the desired times?

You don't need to turn the power to the boiler on and off to control the heating

I don't need to mate. 300mm from openable window. 150mm from fixed window. Sorry if I'm stepping on your toes, posting on your territory, you being an active long term poster and I am not. Is there an initiation ceremony I missed or something?

(y)

It's the openable part of the window, not the start of the fixed pane.

Hmmmm... Well of course the socket may need moving. I don't have a tape measure to hand but looks like more than 300mm from that openable window... other than that?

Where are you planning to fit the boiler? On the blockwork with the sockets on, and the flue exiting under the lintel? If so, don't see a problem with the top of the core hole half a brick down from the lintel

Looks like expansion vessel gone for starters e133 is for a qualified engineer to investigate.

Looking for the make of this shower to find suitable glands for it, cheers! P1000794 by John506 posted 17 Sep 2017 at 5:29 PM

Ahh I see, so it's not necessarily drawing anything then, I just measured what is available if it wanted it. This is the first time I've actually tried to understand Volts, amps and resistance, so sorry if I'm a little slow.

Only thing that was on was the light in the boot, but it's not on the same feed as the trailer hookup. Nothing was plugged into the trailer socket so it's got me baffled. If it's showing 12v at the fuse holder does that mean it's drawing current, even with it saying 0 for amps?