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Great - will do. Thanks :wink: :wink:

Could you elaborate a little on how this is done. Is it because the 3amp fcu is feeding the 13amp one? What if I didn't use the load side of the first FCU and connected the second fcu directly to the socket. That would mean having two fused switch connection units spurred from the socket...

If the load on the 2 switched fcu is low, i.e low voltage downlights on one and a tv on the other , I presume this is ok? Do I connect the first fcu to the socket, then run cable from the load on the first fcu to the second? Update Ok, I've done the above now as I think its ok given...

I'm now thinking of wiring my plasma tv to a fused switch connection unit. I would have a double socket with 2 spurs, both of which will be fused switch connection units. One fused at 3amp. Is this ok? I'm sure I have read you can have more than one spur from a socket as long as you...

Ok - thank. I'll source a crimper then :roll: :roll:

John - I've seen the price, so I'll try to borrow one from my neighbour tomorrow. Out of interest, could I not use junction boxes as a cheaper alternative.

Cheers - I'll have a look now

Thanks guys for your swift and informative replies. I take on board both your comments re crimping instead of terminal blocks and I'll pay a visit to my local DIY store tomorrow. Plugwash - the cavity will be hollow and not insulated as its just an internal wall. I thought I may be...

....and just want to check on the safety aspects. 1. I have built a new timber framed wall, 5 inches in front of the existing wall. I have moved the socket from the back wall onto the timber frame of a new wall by adding c12inches of 2.5mm T&E as it wouldn't quite reach to where I wanted it...

Ok - I've now increased the cylinder store to 70 and adjusted the bleed valve so the HW is the correct temp out the tap. Chris - do I need to do exercise 1 and 2 from your previous post, now we've ascertained I haven't got motorised valves? My system appears to be the Direct Mainsflow twin...

Any idea on how I do that. The knob only has + and -, which way do I turn to make it colder? There is a screw in the middle of the knob, and whilst the knob turns it doesn't move in and out if you see what I mean Just realised that now :lol: Do you mean the original installer or the...

Chris, as we seem to be getting on so well :wink: , I've gone looking for the motorised valve. Just to remind you, I am a mere simpleton. There is a valve conected to the 'Albion Mainsflow Cylinder' but this is a 'blending valve' . Where will the motorised valve be likely situated? As you...

Chris, thanks for the constructive bit of the post :wink: . You just can't help yourself though can you - I use yahoo actually :wink: :wink: Do you know, I think I'm beginning to like you :shock: :shock:

Softus, I just thought Chris was rather belittling with some of his remarks. Maybe I'm just not used to his style. I merely posted as a consumer with limited knowledge of boilers and CH/HW systems. Perhaps I should have explained this at the outset. There have been some really good...

Tony thanks for that, again just what I was looking for. A summary of what I should be looking for and a way to resolve the issue with the money I have paid. Again I have made notes of what you have said, and will see if the plumber mentions any of this when I next speak to him. Again much...

Cheers Raden, not to worry. Another comment which makes me feel I could be ok. :)

Thanks ACOperson, I appreciate the reply. Yes, I have had HW only for a period of 7days+ with no lock out. It tripped after the CH had been on for c3hrs on Saturday. Just so you know my 'setup'. I currently have the CH & HW set to come on at 6am and go off at 11pm. When the CH isn't needed...

Chris, I don't think we are getting anywhere trading insults. Your first post to my question was your advice based on the HW causing the problem. To be honest I couldn't really give it too much credibility because it is the CH causing the tripping. I pointed this out to you which you later...