Moved a socket & added a fused switch connection unit...

[BigD]

....and just want to check on the safety aspects.

1. I have built a new timber framed wall, 5 inches in front of the existing wall. I have moved the socket from the back wall onto the timber frame of a new wall by adding c12inches of 2.5mm T&E as it wouldn't quite reach to where I wanted it to go. I cut the 2 sets of cables which fed the socket, added the 2 new pieces of cable, connected them with choc blocks, which I have then wrapped in insulation tape. I have a feeling a qualified sparky wouldn't have done it that way, but is it safe? If I were to do it again, what should I have done? The cables will be in the hollow cavity between the old wall and new plasterboard wall and run horizontally from the existing socket which I understand is the safe zone. .

2. I have then run another length of the 2.5mm T&E from this socket to a 13amp fused switch connection unit. To this I have connected my LED downlights (not earthed as double insulated). What about the earth wire? I have connected the earth wire in the T&E to the FCU, but there is no earth in the flex from the downlights, therefore only one earth wire is connected in the fcu. Also, the instructions I got with the light fitting states, if you are connecting to a ring main, use a fcu with a 3amp fuse fitted. I couldn't find a 3amp fused switch unit (do they exist or can you just swap the 13 amp fuse for a 3amp?

 

[plugwash]

....and just want to check on the safety aspects.

1. I have built a new timber framed wall, 5 inches in front of the existing wall. I have moved the socket from the back wall onto the timber frame of a new wall by adding c12inches of 2.5mm T&E as it wouldn't quite reach to where I wanted it to go. I cut the 2 sets of cables which fed the socket, added the 2 new pieces of cable, connected them with choc blocks, which I have then wrapped in insulation tape.

you should really have put a blanking plate on the old socket box and made the connections in there, also as the old box is presumablly inaccessible you should have crimped rather than using terminal block.

it isn't hugely dangerous but certainly isn't compliant either.

The cables will be in the hollow cavity between the old wall and new plasterboard wall and run horizontally from the existing socket which I understand is the safe zone. .

but since the existing socket is no longer visible the cables running to it in the original wall will not be in a safe zone (this isn't a problem in your case as they are more than 50mm deep

also what is this cavity for? if you are filling it with insulation you need to consider the affect of that on the cables you run through it.

2. I have then run another length of the 2.5mm T&E from this socket to a 13amp fused switch connection unit. To this I have connected my LED downlights (not earthed as double insulated). What about the earth wire? I have connected the earth wire in the T&E to the FCU, but there is no earth in the flex from the downlights, therefore only one earth wire is connected in the fcu.

sounds ok

Also, the instructions I got with the light fitting states, if you are connecting to a ring main, use a fcu with a 3amp fuse fitted. I couldn't find a 3amp fused switch unit (do they exist or can you just swap the 13 amp fuse for a 3amp?

they take plug fuses so just swap it for the rating you require like you would when wiring a plug.

 

[ricicle]

The extending cables should have been crimped as these are considered a permanent joint.Choc-blocks must be accessable as they have screw terminals and will require inspection.

There is no problem with the one earth in the FCU as it is from the feed cable.

You can fit a 3A fuse in the 13A (max) FCU

EDITlus what Plug said ^^^

 

[JohnD]

BTW Screwfix had some ratchet crimpers at reduced price when I looked a few days ago.

Search "Crimping Tool"

 

[BigD]

Thanks guys for your swift and informative replies.

I take on board both your comments re crimping instead of terminal blocks and I'll pay a visit to my local DIY store tomorrow.

Plugwash - the cavity will be hollow and not insulated as its just an internal wall.

I thought I may be able to swap the fuse - still better to check though

 

[BigD]

BTW Screwfix had some ratchet crimpers in their half-price stock clearance sale when I looked a few days ago.

Cheers - I'll have a look now

 

[JohnD]

sorry it is not in the "clearance" section - search "crimping" tool

They also sell the insulated blue crimps that you will need.

 

[BigD]

John - I've seen the price, so I'll try to borrow one from my neighbour tomorrow. Out of interest, could I not use junction boxes as a cheaper alternative.

 

[RF Lighting]

No.

Joint boxes are still a screwed connection, which could work loose over time. Therefore they need to be accesible for inspection, testing and fault finding / rectifying.

 

[BigD]

No.

Joint boxes are still a screwed connection, which could work loose over time. Therefore they need to be accesible for inspection, testing and fault finding / rectifying.

Ok - thank. I'll source a crimper then

 

[BigD]

I'm now thinking of wiring my plasma tv to a fused switch connection unit.

I would have a double socket with 2 spurs, both of which will be fused switch connection units. One fused at 3amp. Is this ok?

I'm sure I have read you can have more than one spur from a socket as long as you have a fcu.