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you should register work within 30 days of completion

I tend to use a hole cutter as you get a nice bit to put back in after if necessary - say around 70mm

I think you mean at least £50 ph

stick a (thin) nail through the ceiling where you want to bring the cable down the wall - easily filled after. Measure to the middle of the wall, 20mm hole down, cable rod through the eggbox stuff. Done it several times myself, makes for a very neat install, especially if you drop the power...

As others have said, I'd drill through at 1st floor level, or, my preferred method, put the cameras on the soffits and run the cables in the loft space.

Actually, this and a dimmer would do it: https://www.rapidonline.com/finder-12-71-8-230-0000-16a-digital-weekly-time-switch-spdt-co-250vac-49-3007 Dimmer to Terminal 1 Lights to Terminal 2 Existing time switch to Terminal 3 L & N to the terminals at the bottom

I would suggest doing this with some "smart" technology. I would recommend the fibaro dimmers, but with these you really need a full blown home automation system to control them. If you're not thinking about expanding the automation of things, something like this...

I find a tone generator and inductive amplifier very useful for cable tracing (mains or data) - although my background is more on the comms side of things. The handy thing is once you put a tone on the cable you can pretty much trace its exact route through ceilings, walls etc (assuming its not...

I'd say a "filament" style LED like this: https://www.internationalleds.co.uk/filament-led-bulbs/amber-tubular-3w-e27-es-led-filament-bulb/8067 would probably be the best bet? I've have a few of the more normal shape ones in table lamps etc that I got from amazon a few years ago and they seem...

Or in reality fed from a 16a mcb. As flameport mentioned, the problem with the 13a plugs is the fuse

Or as BAS says, a BS 546

Sorry, I should have mentioned that you'll probably want to fit an outlet with an interlocking isolator, such as: https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/MKK9610BLU.html and note on the installation certificate the deviation

As Simon has mentioned, if you still have the old plug, the best thing to do is going to be to use a continuity tester to determine which wire goes to which pin on the plug. If any? Regarding the issue that caused it, I would suggest if you are going to continue to charge using an extension...

Is it an iec (kettle) lead? It sounds like a chinese version

Is the "250v ~ AC MAX" *rating* not the contact rating, rather than the coil voltage? Could you get a clearer picture of the model number at the bottom I can't quite work out if it says 230v or 24v? Thanks

We use calcard http://calcards.co.uk/ every month to ensure our test equipment readings don't change. We also do an RCD test on the same RCD each month. This was suggested by NICEIC as a better alternative to annual calibration.

Easiest option is probably to drill a hole at an angle from the light to the post? I doubt you'll terminate SWA in the light fitting, so terminate that in a wiska box or similar at the post, then run 3183TRS to the light fitting

But unless there was an accessory on the outside of the wall, the safe zone wouldn't be carried through from the inside.

MK are guaranteed for 20 years, so they should send you a replacement

Sorry for the late response! I actually insist on it for new installs, even if I've done the work myself. It takes 10mins to plug an mft into every socket in a house and check that you get a reasonable r1+r2. Next you'll be telling me some people don't do all the tests required for ring...