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in what respect?

polycell produce a great undercoat called Basecoat. I have used this extensively and foudn it to provide a superior finish in preparation for overpainting. polycell

TomL what operating system do you have installed?

a decent mix is 1:3:6 , cement/building sand/ 20mm max gravel

wolfinwales, the allen bolts hold the pump casing together personally I would'nt undo them. from the pic you sent it appears that you have isolation valves, well at least one ( the red tap). Check for another at the other side of the pump. Mine did function 98%, there was some fine mist...

I have just replaced a Grundfos 15/50 using this sequence. 1) turn off central heating 2) locate and turn off power to pump 3) locate and close isolation valves either side of the pump 4) remove the pump 5) flip pump over, unlock baseplate, and disconnect power cable 6) take pump to...

i am not clear why you cant locate the lock block within the door and attach the handle to it? can you send a diagram?

what radius are you looking for ?

I have two cleaning regimes. 1 oily cloth ( Gun Oil) for wiping chisels and bench tools and drill chucks 2 vacuum cleaner for blowing/sucking the brick/concrete/granite/wood dust from every tool.

if you intend to tile the whole wall and have sound plasterboard why plaster?

breezer, thanks I will check. for now I have managed to reinstate the water and heating by adjusting the flow rate dial at the base of the unit. I suspect some fouling was preventing the rotor from spinning since increasing the pump output fixed the problem. until it stops working i...

ok so I have ruled out the boiler as the cause. the root appears to be a Grundfoss UPS 15 pump. I need instruction on how to remove and service/replace the pump

fire has power and gas. central heating timer is ticking normally and set to correct time, it is [a] on->[b]off -> [c]on ->[d] off-> [a] pilot indicator is not lit, boiler lockout is dimly lit. have already followed front panel instructions to rest the boiler. for 2 days i have only...

before you start decorating or floor finishing, get an electrician to check the wiring and consumer unit. we generally use far more electrical appliances nowadays and if you need new sockets; rewire etc... it is best to get it sorted before you paint.

lift the slabs and lay the bitumen coated side down ?

try here

for oil based paints. store the uncleaned brush in a pot of water, keep topping it up and it will last for months. when ready to use it shake of the water and continue. I have 1" and 2" brushes for black gloss and white gloss stored like this. for water based paints. wrap the bristle...

the common material for shed finish is weatherboarding. you should find this quite easily.

ok pebbledash, I have just spent a month removing harling, pebbledash in england, from the rear of my house. here are my tips. 1) be prepared for a lot of mess, a 5x4metre wall at average thickness 30mm will yield 0.6m3 of waste, it doesnt sound much but it is when you have to dispose...

an acceptable gap for wooden windows would be 10 mm either side, as this gives sufficient space for the frames to be properly wedged and plugged into the wall. if the gap is bigger you run the risk of deforming the frame when fixing.