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Hi I just installed 4 LED drivers to run some new kitchen cabinet lights http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B008DFSU7O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 2 of the drivers run 3 x 3w leds each 2 of them run 1 x 3w leds each (because of the configuration of the cupboards) All...

Thanks all Just to confirm, the conversion is from 12v MR16 halogen 50W to 240v GU10 LED 6W After a lot of trial and error, this bulb from LEDHut is the closest match I can find for a 50W halogen - at 6W that's an 88% electricity saving for the same amount of light. I got these for about...

OK thanks. But there doesn't seem to be any physical difference between my existing LV fittings and the 240V equivalents e.g. here - except for an earth connection. So I think that answers my question, unless anyone can tell me that the earth isn't required?

Hi I have 25 MR16 Aurora fire-rated downlights like these in a few downstairs rooms, installed by an electrician during building work 5 years ago. All wired via small black JBs and Aurora transformers. I'm converting them all from 50W halogens to 5W LEDs. I've had some false starts with...

OK thanks - I'll stick with straightforward separate supply/load cables then. Will take a closer look at the exact cable routing once I've cleared space in the cupboard! Cheers

Thanks for the quick reply. I want to avoid directly connecting the booster switch to the immersion flex - because that would leave the flex crossing the airing cupboard. So I'd prefer to leave the immersion flex running behind the cylinder as it does now, and connect to the booster switch via...

Hi I'm planning to install an immersion boost switch like this. The existing standard 20A DP switch is stupidly positioned (behind the cylinder) so I'm planning to put the boost switch in a more sensible place, but leave the existing switch and immersion supply flex in place (to keep the...

Thanks for the quick reply. Immersion it is for the hot water for a little while then! Not sure about the rad connections to be honest - but I'm assuming they are connected as you suggest. The pipes I need to work on are dry now, so I'll carry on and then refill the system in a week or two...

Hi I'm installing a couple of replacement downstairs rads - different sizes to originals so need to drain down system. Not the first time it's been done, but first time I've done it myself. I'm planning to leave it drained down for a couple of weekends while I do the work with decorating etc...

Thanks - that's done the trick. Out of interest, in this case what's 'automatic' about the aavs? I'm assuming nothing, if I have to manually open and close to vent air? I have a similar vent in the airing cupboard (different model) and never had any problems... Cheers

Hi I've been searching the forum but can't find a solution to this. I'm replacing an old shower pump with a new Salamander RSP 50. Pump in airing cupboard, up-and-over pipework via loft. Standard HW cylinder and cold tank setup. Should be a straight swap, but I'm also installing bottle...

Perfect - easy when you know how! Many thanks. :P

Cameras are these: http://www.cctvdirect.co.uk/products/Twilight-FLD-%252d-High-Resolution-700TVL-Vandal-IR-Dome.html Cheers

Have just bought a 4-camera Twilight FLD CCTV kit from CCTV Direct, thanks to recommendations in this forum. Good fast delivery and just taking a look at the kit, arrived today. I'm probably being thick but I can't for the life of me see how to separate the cameras from the mountings for...

Thanks for the link. Kitchen/diner including extension is about 8m x 5m Lights on full = task lighting Lights dimmed = accent lighting when we're not working/cooking etc As I say, all works well for us - just looking for a better solution for the cabinet lights.

In my kitchen I have 4x 50w/12v halogen ceiling downlighters controlled from a 500w Richmond dimmer module on a grid switch. The same dimmer also controls 4 transformers running 8x 20w/12v halogen under cabinet lights (6 on one side of the kitchen, 2 on the other side - either side of hob). 2...

Hi I previously posted here about intermittent problems with my Glowworm Fuelsaver 50F boiler not firing. I also had a problem with hot water capacity and temperature, but that now seems to be a separate issue. After several visits from BG over several weeks, I now have: new pump, new HW...

BG guy came yesterday, screatched his head a bit and eventually decided that the CH/HW switching problem could only be due to either the motorised valve or the boiler programmer (even though both looked to be working normally). He replaced the valve (because it was much older than the...

Hi - nope, problem not yet sorted but BG guy due tomorrow. Both the HW and CH pipes get hot (very) when motorised valve in mid-position. This morning at 6.30 - CH on since 6 but taking a while to warm up (but then it was minus 4 outside!), but no HW (but should have been on since 5.30). HW...

OK - I have the right pipe/valve now. What do I need to do to sort out the balancing? Out of interest, how does the balancing affect the boiler firing? I'd assumed the boiler was simply switched on/off on demand, but obviously it's a whole lot more complicated than that! Cheers