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Sorry I don't understand your answer....... Can you clarify please?

I am fitting a cloakroom for a customer in a confined space under a staircase. I have a gap 1650 high x 880 wide which I would like to fit doors (louvre?) into. I can't find louvre doors available in sizes which would work. An alternative is cutting mdf to size but would prefer something more...

Yes i know, 5mm max each side. Any suggestions on my original question?

I have 17 interior hardwood veneer doors from Howdens. Any idea how much I should expect to pay to have them sealed and hung. In South East.

According to retailers advice, the pad is fixed to the back of the mirror then glazing adhesive used as normal............

Very good, that would be a basin. This is a piece of bathroom furniture with a basin mounted on top. Any ideas?

what would the situation be if looking to fit the shaver socket inside a basin unit? Basin unit is 800 wide and 350 high.......

I am a bathroom installer and have all electrical work done and certified by a qualified electrician. He has wired the supply, all I do is connect the appliance. so no problem on that score. Any ideas on the adhesive element of this situation?

I haven't actually bought the pad yet. If it is unfeasible to use a pad behind an inset mirror then I won't buy one.

Have fitted several bathroom mirrors completely inset by tiling but plan to add a demister pad to this one before fitting. I always use glazing silicone and foil backed mirror. My question is, will the adhesive between the pad and mirror hold it up after adding the silicone behind it? Also what...

just wondering how you got on with the price-evasive tiler? Did he do a good job and how much did he charge in the end? Were your parents happy in the end?

I have been asked to tile display boards for a new retail outlet. The boards are framed 12.5mm mdf and the tiles a natural stone, so pretty heavy. Would a hot melt glue gun do the job, enabling the tiles to be changed now and then? If so what spec would i need? i've never used one so don't know...

if you're totally confident there is no deflection in the floor, use 6mm hardibacker, attach with flexible adhesive and drywall screws max 300 centres. If not and you need to strengthen the floor, although 15mm ply is recommended, it's virtually impossible to source so pro tilers use 12mm min...

Thanks for responses guys. Out of interest why would they be unsuitable for standard radiators, I appreciate the element would be horizontal rather than vertical, does that affect its performance and make it unsuitable? Kickspace heaters unfeasible due to direction of their output in this...

Our kitchen is inadequately heated and i would like to add 2 electric element heated radiators or possibly towel radiators. I appreciate this is not the most efficient heating method but the off-the-shelf oil-filled ones are not attractive. I see Screwfix etc sell these elements...

Our kitchen is inadequately heated and i would like to add 2 electric element heated radiators or possibly towel radiators. I appreciate this is not the most efficient heating method but the off-the-shelf oil-filled ones are not attractive. I see Screwfix etc sell these elements...

Thanks for the replies. Help appreciated.

I have an 05 Audi A4 1.8T 24k miles. It obviously doesn't do many miles, generally short runs. The battery was flat yesterday morning, borrowed friends jump leads and started it, ran stationary for about 40-45 mins. This morning: flat as a pancake. Never had a problem before. Does it need more...

I would use a manual tile saw for pipe holes. You may find this article interesting re Plasplugs, however: http://www.diyweek.net/news/news.asp?id=12051&title=Uncertainty+over+future+of+Plasplugs

I would check the adhesive manufacturer's instructions first. Eg Bal recommend SEALING the back and edges of ply with BAL BOND SBR. Ardex recommend using polyurethane varnish for sealing the back and edges, then PRIME the tile surface with Ardex P51 primer and tile with Ardexflex 7001. Sealing...