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Thank you, Blagard. What has been happening is the first scenario you described. It's demoralising that the worktop will have to be removed to service the cistern, even though there is front access. In that situation, I think I shall replace the whole thing, as I am paying a plumber in any...

Typo in last paragraph : it should read Fluidmaster.

I've looked back through the threads but haven't been able to find a clear solution. Installed in 2008 I have a Macdee concealed cistern (maybe a PNEU COMPACT II with a Kayla mechanism?) behind a slimline WC unit made by Utopia for Nabis. The WC unit is only 220mm deep and 500mm wide. I think...

I take your point that it will last longer if perfectly done, but materials fail with time. The failure was at the back along the wall. The edge was tiled over and sealant applied but mastic sealants don't seem to last very long - I have been told they need replacing once a year. Whenever...

Thank you for the replies! This sink isn't an inset one, so it wouldn't be fitted into the worktop - it's quite an unusual type, I think. I've replaced the taps already once and I know they don't leak and really the worktop failed after less than 5 years. I think inset sinks may look nice when...

I don't know whether any of the options will actually work, given the space I have and I have no idea how one joins this sink onto a worktop at the side and how much space under the worktop or next to the unit might be taken up. Basically I have no spare space! Can such a sink be clipped to the...

I'm giving up on the usual arrangement of a sink set into a worktop, as the 2" strip of worktop at the back of the sink is constantly getting wet. (I do all the washing up in the sink, as there is no room for a dishwasher.) To replace this I plan to buy a Franke EPX 714 sink, either 1200mm...

I have also posted about replacing the damaged floorboiards on a separate thread and should welcome people's suggestions about tough durable flooring that would be an alternative to bare boards. Thanks.

I should be grateful for any advice or help here, please. The boards are 4 1/2" wide and approx 7/8"/22mm deep, so not standard size. Have been hunting around on the internet but with no luck so far - I wish I could track down some reclaimed boards circa 1930. The boards are yellow/orange...

Good morning, Since my previous post last night (which no one has read yet) I am realising I should like to make sure any replacement floorboards match the existing ones. The house was built in about 1930 and the boards are 4 1/2" wide. Some of them were originally the full width of the house...

At the moment I have boards which were sanded and treated with Sadolin PV67 20 years ago. The choice is whether to renovate the floorboards (there are lots of gaps, some rather wide, and split and otherwise damaged boards) and resand and use the Sadolin again or go down another route. Upstairs...

Tickly T, the span is more. A structural engineer is doing the calculations. They also notched joists that run from the front of the house to the back; my house is pretty small, but I suppose the full depth is between 22 and 25 feet. The engineer found one notch that was 5cm deep - completely...

O dear, I just measure the joist and the cut out part. The joist is 17cm deep, the cut out 4 cm deep - so they've taken out nearly 25% of the depth. I shall definitely be asking them to reinforce the joists now.

Thank you everyone for your replies - and for the link to that paper. Looks as though the Building Regs man may have been wrong.

Hello, I have tried searching the archive and tried looking up stuff in the Building Regs, but with no luck. Please, does anyone know whether it is OK to cut into 7" deep joists (to run 2 22mm pipes across them) without reinforcing the floor? My installer yesterday did this. It looked as though...

I am thinking of replacing my inset sink with a sit-on one, because the laminate worktop round it keeps getting wet and the silicone seals fail and everything gets wet and mouldy. At the moment the washing machine is under the draining board and the sink bowl sits above a 600mm kitchen unit...

My current stainless steel sink with drainer is the standard type set into a worktop and I have endless problems with water getting into the worktop and down the wall. The worktop has been replaced once and has again rotted. Sealant replaced, but it keeps failing and so it goes on. The sink is...

I have just had an Armitage Shanks Idealcast bath professionally fitted. There is a shower over the bath. When I get in the bath I notice that it does move very slightly - and I thought that an Idealcast bath would be rock solid. When the old bath was taken out it was found that the edges of...

I've done a few forum searches and read the FAQ and it seems that generally no-one likes Ideal boilers, with the exception of the Classic. Is the Classic still a safe option, in terms of reliability, please? (I know specifications may change from year to year.) Thank you.

After five days it was finally sorted out with the aid of a plunger and opening the trap and poking it about.The trap of course now leaks . The beads dislodged themselves gradually and floated up. I couldn't find anyone with a wet and dry vacuum cleaner, otherwise i would have tried this. Thanks...