How to join side of Franke EPX 714 range sink to worktop

[Cambridge Mum]

I'm giving up on the usual arrangement of a sink set into a worktop, as the 2" strip of worktop at the back of the sink is constantly getting wet. (I do all the washing up in the sink, as there is no room for a dishwasher.)

To replace this I plan to buy a Franke EPX 714 sink, either 1200mm long or 1500mm. (Or maybe a Rangemaster sink 1000mm long.) The sink will be on the right and the drainer on the left.

The sink will be over a 600mm unit. To the left of this, under the drainer. will have to be a 600mm washing machine. (Unless the washing machine goes under the drainer I won't be able to have a washing machine - unless I get rid of the oven!) To the left of this will be a unit (currently 400mm), then built in oven and built in hob (set into worktop). To the left of that another unit (currently 300mm). Then that's it - no more room, I have a tiny kitchen.

At the moment there is a worktop the full length of the run - 2400mm - so on the far right is the sink and 300mm from the other end are the hob and oven.

When I put in the new 1200 or 1500 stainless steel sink the only worktop will run from the wall at the left end, with a cut out out for the hob and it will finish part way over the 400mm unit.

I tried to sort out what to do a year ago and spent many hours on this but no solution was ever found. Now the worktop behind the sink is the colour and consistency of coffee grounds and I can wait no longer. If anyone has a solution I should be very grateful.

If I buy the 1200mm sink, its left hand side should end next to the 400mm unit, but over the washing machine. Is there a way to join the sink to the unit and to the beginning of the worktop on the left that will still leave room for the washing machine?

If I buy the 1500mm sink, how can I support the left hand side of the sink and join it to the worktop on its left, when it finishes part way over a kitchen unit?

If I swapped the 400mm and 300mm units round and bought the 1500mm sink, the side would be next to the beginning of the worktop, but I think the cut out for the hob would be impossible, as there would be no more than 1cm between the cut out and the worktop edge. (At some point in the future, I could get rid of the built in hob and oven and buy a freestanding cooker, but I won't have the money for this in the foreseeable future.)

I think the Rangemaster 1000mm sink probably won't work as it would finish over the washing machine and I don't see how the sink's edge could be supported.

I've been into B&Q, John Lewis to ask for advice and have asked two builders for advice and quites for the work - but neither wanted the work or would quote and the shops were clueless.

 

[foxhole]

So what's the problem

 

[Cambridge Mum]

So what's the problem

I don't know whether any of the options will actually work, given the space I have and I have no idea how one joins this sink onto a worktop at the side and how much space under the worktop or next to the unit might be taken up. Basically I have no spare space! Can such a sink be clipped to the side of a unit or fixed to a worktop half way over a unit without taking up space for battens etc and would such an arrangement be sturdy and lasting?

No-one in the kitchen shops could tell me how a sink like this can be fixed. Generally the interest was in selling me a complete new fitted kitchen rather than helping me patch up an old one.

 

[foxhole]

You can fit a sink just about anywhere, how much cupboard space you will loose will depend on where in the cup'd run it fits, sinks are secured from below with clips and secure to the worktop before it is fitted, so you normally need to lift the top before fitting.Fitting drainer over a washing machine can be done if the dimension allow, but I don't what yours are.You would ideally need a kitchen fitter to measure up and tell you what is possible before buying anything.A good handyman should also be able to fit.If you concern is a two inch strip of worktop getting wet a new sink is a bit of a 'sledge hammer to crack a nut' solution.Maybe your taps leak?

 

[Cambridge Mum]

Thank you for the replies! This sink isn't an inset one, so it wouldn't be fitted into the worktop - it's quite an unusual type, I think. I've replaced the taps already once and I know they don't leak and really the worktop failed after less than 5 years. I think inset sinks may look nice when new, but they aren't very practical, so I'd much rather have one which fits right back to the wall which can then be tiled over. If I had a new worktop I'd be in the same position five years down the line or less and it's expensive fitting a new worktop with the disruption, the need for a plumber,a carpenter to cut two new holes, purchase of a new carcass for under the sink because of rot, the necessity of getting in a gas fitter twice to take out and replace the hob. I'd much rather sort this once and for all. It would turn out cheaper, even though the new sink costs at least £500!

It's a pity I can't post a diagram - the problem would be clearer if I could.

 

[foxhole]

If it's not lasting long then it's down to incorrect fitting, hole for sink should be sealed to prevent any wrot.

 

[joinerjohn]

A correctly fitted inset sink should not allow water either into the worktop or down the back of the worktop. All cutouts should be sealed with waterproof varnish. The worktop should be sealed at the back edge to stop water ingress. Unless you have a leaking tap/waste outlet, there's no reason for water to affect the unit below the sink.

 

[Cambridge Mum]

I take your point that it will last longer if perfectly done, but materials fail with time. The failure was at the back along the wall. The edge was tiled over and sealant applied but mastic sealants don't seem to last very long - I have been told they need replacing once a year. Whenever vegetables are washed or the washing up done , or a bit of hand washing done in the sink, the area gets wet - many times a day; I would guess 10 times a day at least. I don't want to have to get someone in every year to replace the sealant - and I can't find anyone to do these small jobs, in any case. Everyone wants to rip out and start again, rather than do maintenance.

 

[Burnerman]

I hope no one minds me butting in?
The drop over sink that Cambridge Mum proposes is a fine and expensive bit of kit, however problems can arise where the work tops are butted up against the edges - its very important that the sealing is correct here or we are back to square one.
Likewise where the sink fits up to the splashback tiles - in no way should water get behind here.
The existing drop in sink should bring no problems whatsoever if its fitted correctly.....if the correct sealant is used and the sink is sealed down before clipping, water ingress won't be an issue. Likewise will be the case where the worktop meets the tile splashback. Dow Corning 785 is the sealant to use....out of the dozens of varieties available, this is the one.
John

 

[foxhole]

I take your point that it will last longer if perfectly done, but materials fail with time. The failure was at the back along the wall. The edge was tiled over and sealant applied but mastic sealants don't seem to last very long - I have been told they need replacing once a year. Whenever vegetables are washed or the washing up done , or a bit of hand washing done in the sink, the area gets wet - many times a day; I would guess 10 times a day at least. I don't want to have to get someone in every year to replace the sealant - and I can't find anyone to do these small jobs, in any case. Everyone wants to rip out and start again, rather than do maintenance.

Done correctly sealant should last a minimum of 10 years.