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Yes, that looks good. Sometimes its just a case of knowing the right terminology to put into google...............

The pipe exits so the underside of the mushroom is parallel to the roof tile and, crucially, is only about 1/8 inch clear. The extractor has never had a decent airflow until now, e.g. if the frypan was overheated it couldn't clear the fug. It can now. If I ease the mushroom vent thingy, say...

My extractor hood exhausts directly out onto the kitchen extension roof. It didn't work for years then finding myself on the roof clearing moss I pulled the "mushroom" off the pipe and realised that it was restricting the air flow. Inside the mushroom was plastic mesh, I assume to stop anything...

Getting there :D Project delayed by arrival of partner's 3rd grandchild :D Loft ladder next, some more flooring under one of the eaves, then deal with this mess ...... Any suggestions about coating / painting / something the rather rough brickwork to clean it up a bit???

May I ask what size counterbattens you are going to use? I am doing the same job on what sounds like the same age house (3x2 joists, lath and plaster) Luckily didn't have to make the loft hatch larger as the standard Wickes (Youngmans Spacesaver??) ladder fits :D . Part of the hatch is...

Now I can see what i'm doing. :) I was warned when I bought the house that the joists in the loft were not strong enough to take a great deal of weight so I don't want to over do things with the size of the cross battens. I'll have to see what the timber yard has.

This is the loft in my small 2 up 2 down 1903 vintage house. Over the last 10 years it seems to have been taken over :( I think I'll counterbatten the existing joists and board over then tackle the birds nests. What size counterbattens should I use? Do I just tuck the insulation...

Possibly the front room...........but I was trying to avoid that as I may want to do the same in that room at some time in the future. The floorboards upstairs are of a different size unfortunately.

The OH wants me to sand down the floorboards in the back room of my 1903 house. I have pulled up the carpet to check the quality of the existing floorboards and found these replacements................... Once sanded / sealed / varnished or whatever will the old and new floorboards...

Niche market for some budding entrepreneur then !

I have been trying to find **something** to finish off the cellar stairs. They are just plain, varnished wood and I would like to put something on the tread to protect the wood and my feet. I went into a large carpet warehouse and the guy looked blank (or should I say blanker) at me...

If I cleaned the doors with white spirit would a coating or 2 of Briwax prevent the resin coming back through? BTW the resin is not just coming out of the knots! Thanks H

Some friends of mine have just moved into a house that has stripped pine doors. During warm weather resin seeps from the wood leaving the surface sticky. I don't think that the doors have been waxed or sealed in any other way. 1. How do they clean this off? 2. Is there a way of stopping...

I did think of that but the profile is a bit tricky. The top of the window is curved.............. I think I just need to seal the brickwork and fill over it. As far as I can see professional sealers come in large quantities :?: :?: , I'll only need a small amount.

My cellar was "professionally" tanked 8years ago using the drainage membrane method but the area round the window was never finished off. This area of the cellar was not used until recently and now the boss wants it looking good. The membrane just finishes about half an inch short of the upvc...

I thought that the outlet would be coming out of the airbrick that ventilates the cellar but it has one of these on it. (I have now found out) Well, it all makes work for the retired man to do...........

My DIY project to convert the back cellar to a utility room is nearly finished, however, I have come across a problem. Due to my cock up the waste feed from the Sanivite pump is below the level of the kitchen drain by about 6 inches. I guess I will have to dig up the path and **somehow** tap...

Hot water for short pieces works fine. I've just cut a couple of 2 metre lengths off and put them on top of the radiator, I'll see how that goes. What do plumbers on new build sites do in cold weather with no central heating? Take a blow torch to it??????

I think this may be a daft question......but......I'm putting a cold water supply into the cellar using 15mm plastic (barrier) pipe which was great running round the back of all the kitchen units as the flexibility helped. Now I'm in the cold-ish cellar and the pipe just stays bent as it...

It doesn't sag. Thanks for the advice. The duct is not accessible except at the ends of course :lol: :lol: so I will have to construct the run then feed it into the duct. I thought of wood blocks in graduated heights attached to the pipe somehow. Ah! pipe clips! Cheers