1.25 Fiesta Zetec Coolant Tank Exploded

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Hi

I’ve got a problem with Daughters Fiesta 1.25 Zetec 1999. Cut a long story short it’s not been used whilst she’s been away at university for 3 years. I’ve just occasionally run it and moved it up and down the drive. Decided she now wants to use it again.

Did some basic work on it and submitted it for an MOT. Ran fine for 12 miles there, temp gauge needle has always been in the middle, no experience of overheating etc. I did fix a leaking hose on it prior to the MOT test. The tank split on the seam, went with one heck of a bang !

So halfway through the MOT whilst it was running the expansion tank burst, sending steam everywhere. Temp gauge normal, fan didn’t cut in. Fitted a new tank, filled it with water, let it burp, and drove it 12 miles home with the heater on full blast, very warm air. No problems, no major pressure build up in the expansion tank.

Had a good look and found a few leaks, cleaned fittings, new clips, new thermostat, and plastic housing (could see coolant stains, common problem). Filled with water (no coolant), burped. Only run on the drive for a while, temp up to normal, top up water.

Problem is with the cap off water is boiling, temp gauge normal, no fan cut in, all hoses warm, except stat to radiator bottom hose, and bottom of radiator. I’ve disconnected the fan switch to prove the fan circuit works. Dropped both old and new stats in boiling water prior to fitting, both open at same temp.

So I’m suspecting this sounds like a blocked rad or pump restricting cooling but why isn’t the temp gauge going over halfway and kicking the fan in.
I know just water will boil sooner than coolant mix, but seems strange. Also now the heater won’t blow warm air, despite pipes by bulkhead being warm. Also no steam from exhaust, no emulsifying of oil, so don’t think it’s a head gasket.

Any ideas what the problem is ?
 
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At this stage I would suspect the coolant pump......unfortunately it's driven by the timing belt so inspection isn't that simple.
If the engine is started from cold with the expansion bottle top off, what happens then?
John :)
 
Hi John

Thanks for the thoughts. I think the pump is driven off the serpentine belt. I've already had this off to get to the stat housing. lol

When I had the stat out I gave the pump a spin by hand an got glugs of water out of the stat housing. Also would expect the temp gauge to be heading for red if it was the pump. It never goes above halfway.

With the cap off the water boils, and emits a bit of steam.
 
I'm just stretching the brain cell here, regarding the water pump arrangement - I just can't picture this one as I thought it was only the 1.3 that had that system.
Anyway......if the engine is cold, water full, coolant cap off and then you start up - if water/air bubbles out, then we must assume head gasket issues, I'm afraid. Can you confirm this?
John :)
 
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Hi John

I hate this car. It's been messed about with before.....

Bit of an update I left it for an hour and the coolant level dropped about 1/2 litre. I'm guessing this is air being bled out of the system, as there are no visible leaks.

Ran the car at tickover on the drive for 20 mins. All hoses now get warm. Hoses are squishy, so no pressure build up. Heater works warm and cold.

Expansion tank is pressuring, but not excessively. Carefully opened it and can see old residual of coolant now mixing with the clean water, and no bubbling.

Maybe a big airlock was the original cause of the expansion tank going bang. i.e. air, heat, expansion, bang !

The only nag I have is despite it running for 20 mins, at tickover to 1500 rmp the temp gauge still doesn't get above half, so the fan doesn't kick in. Naively then I'm hoping this is because the temp isn't getting high enough at tickover with the bonnet open.

I'm now going to put some anti-freeze mix in it and try and give it a good run. I'll keep you posted. Again hate this car !
 
Check the radiator cap in case it's stuck closed and over pressurising the system plus also thermostat.

If these are OK then move on to the heater control valve as these can cause the exact problem, plus it seems a common cause of overheating on the Zetec.
 
Radiator cap (coolant bottle cap, the cap with the valves fitted) not opening at 0.5Bar
 
Good call on the rad cap, Alan......I have heard of them splitting though but no personal experience.
John :)
 
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