12 V Wall lights - transformer query - making them dimmer

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Hi There,

I have some 12V G4 bulb wall lights switched from multiple locations that are too bright - what's the best way to make them dimmer?

I have two wall lights wired through a junction box with each light connected to the switched live (i.e. they are wired in parallel so both lights get the 240V supply). The wall lights use 12 V with 3 x 10 W G4 bulbs with the transformer incorporated in to the base of each wall light fitting. The fittings are earthed.

It all works and there are no issues - which is where my question comes in. I think I want to break it.

The wall lights are too bright (they are meant to be provide mood lighting to supplement the main overhead light) - I want to make them dimmer. They are controlled with wall switches from 3 locations in the room using 2 x 2 way switches and an intermediate switch. What are my options?

1) I could install a dimmer switch (this would be the answer if they were only switched from one location), but this would mean I could only dim from one location, and that kind of makes the 3-way switching a little pointless. Is there a way I can keep the 3-way switching and use a dimmer wall switch? Could I install a dimmer in the switched live in the ceiling void given that I probably do not need to alter the brightness of the lights once they are less bright? Are there any reasonably priced remote controlled options? Could a dimmer just go in to the wall directly above each light- is there a way I can use one dimmer to control both lights and still be to code?

2) Can I connect the two wall lights in series (using the spare terminal in the junction box) so that each wall light gets only 120V and this is transformed to 6V so the bulbs glow more dimly? Is this allowed in terms of code? What happens to halogen bulbs if you run them at half designed voltage? What about the transformers?

3) Can I just replace the 10W G4 bulbs with 5W bulbs, or LED equivalents running at 2 W so the light output would be lower? The transformer is designed for a minimum of 20W - see below - so one transformer could run 6 x 5 W bulbs, but then I would need to run a 12V supply to one of the lights and bypass the transformer in the second - haven't a clue what NIC/EIC might say about that. Not absolutely sure what I think.


1, 2 and 3 seem like reasonable options to me, but what have I missed?

All advice is appreciated. Pre-part P I used to wire my own installations and they passed NIC/EIC inspections. I understand electrics, but my knowledge of transformers stops at school boy level and is theoretical rather than practical.


The technical info on the transformer is:

Manufacturer: Eaglerise. Model: SET60CV (20-60W)
In german it says: Electronic transformer for LV-Halogen lamps.

There is a diagram of the primary and secondary windings. On the primary it states: 220-240V AC, 0.75 (and then a square). On the secondary it states SEK 11.5V AC. Max lamps 60W. 0.75-1.5 (and then a square).

Below this: Prim 220-240V AC 50 HZ 0.27A lamda: 0.98
SEK 11.5 V AC eff Max 5A 20-60W
Ta: Max 50 C. Tc Max 80C

And then a series of 10 symbols (the ones I recognise being double insulated and a CE mark - I can provide a photo of these if it would help). In case there is anyone who knows I have 120 in a triangle, 2x M in a triangle, a house with an arrow going in to it, a rectangle with two connections in a circle, the double insulated two squares, a triangle with VDE in it, concentric circles with EMV below them, SELV equivalent, and the CE mark. Phew.

There is one of these transformers in the base of each wall light.

Can you help? What are my options (I know replacing the fittings is likely to be suggested, but I am looking for a work around with the existing items)....

Thanks,

Leigh.
 
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What a long post (ooh Matron!)

I suggest you replace the switches with dimmers. You can get dimmers that have a master and two slaves (including one for intermediate). That way you can have a dimmer at each position. See these: http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/VLIQ1401.html[/QUOTE]

Short reply as long initial post. Would do my best Sid James cackle, but I'm rubbish at it.

Love the idea, but the main light is also switched using the same single gang plate (i.e there are two switches on each plate - one for the overhead lights and one for the wall lights). I was going to ask "Do they do two dimmers on one faceplate?" But they do: http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/VLIQ1252.html

Still leaves me with a problem for the 3 switch plate where the kitchen lights are switched from the dining room, but I'll do some thinking about that. Maybe extend to double width face plate and use the 3 gang version for this switch....ideally would like to keep the kitchen lights as a toggle rather than dimmer though. Any ideas on that, or do I have to get the chasing tools out?

Fab. Are there any other solutions?

Leigh.
 
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I would consider fitting lower wattage lamps (and possibly fitting lower wattage transformers)

Dimming halogen lamps reduces their life expectancy (the halogen regeneration process doesn't work properly)

IIRC LED lamps require a different power supply unit / transformer matched to their power requirements anyway.
 

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