15mm to 10mm

[marsaday]

is it ok when putting in a new heating pipe system with cmbi to go from 22 to 15 and then on the last 1 meter go down to 10mm when going into the rads. a mate is doing this for aesthetic reasons.

 

[Registered Gas Man]

Yes.

 

[DCPlumbing]

Yes, I use this method with back boxes behind the radiators. It does away with the legs that go through the floor. Much neater!

 

[namsag]

Dcplumbing. Out of interest how do you get the pipes to a box behind radiator and how would this be neater in an existing house . And not a new build

 

[DCPlumbing]

This method is ideally suited to new build or renovation where there is no plaster on the walls. Take a standard single metal back box, the type that light switches fit in. Punch out two holes, side by side and fit protective grommets. Site your radiator and fix the back box in the center of where your rad is going to be. As a guide it needs to be about a foot (300mm) from the floor. You can then bring your 10mm pipes up the wall from under the floor and into your back box. Thats it first fix done! The walls can now be plastered. When fixing the rad, Before you hang it, Attach two lengths of 10mm pipe to those in the back box with 10mm elbows and bring them just past your rad valves. Hang your rad, then trim the 10mm pipe to the correct length to go into the rad valves using 10mm stem elbows. You will need to fit 10mm adapters into your Rad valves unless you fit new ones that are 10mm already.

This can be done on existing plastered walls but of course you will need to chase out for the pipes and back box.

You should keep the the 10mm pipe run as short as you can due to it's BTU carrying capacity (around 6500 BTU'S) I usually work out the pipe work as per usual then come off either 15 or 22 mm at the rad or as near as damn it.

 

[namsag]

Yeah i know how its done so how is this neater than having 6 inches of pipe sticking through a floor on an existing house.

 

[DCPlumbing]

Er! Because there isn't 6 inches of pipe sticking through the floor? because you don't have to cut your carpet or laminate floor around it? or bash it with the hoover or go and buy those plastic things to try and cover the tarnished copper.

I dunno! i suppose its down to preference really.

 

[namsag]

So chopping out a wall and getting it replastered /papered/ painted etc etc is less hassle than lifting a carpet and a couple of boards God it would be horrendous yo live with tarnished pipes or heaven forbid paint them. Get a grip

 

[hav it]

 

[DCPlumbing]

The original question regards asthetics, My answer relates to asthetics. why pick on me? You could ask why bother dropping from 15mm to 10mm and taking the same route?

Some people will pay good money to get what they want irrespective of the work involved. Then again, Some people will be happy with someone who'd rather lift the carpet and bang a few pipes in.

Like i said its all about preference really! and options, I suppose.

 

[namsag]

Who is picking on you, it was a simple question that needed a yes or no answer. I cant spell asthetics , but cant see why possible scar down wall etc etc to get pipes coming out from under rad and usuall for site plumbers in a big loop . would look best.

 

[marsaday]

my mate who is doing this is a designer and so is pretty picky about finish and over all look. i wouldn't do what he is doing, but the point about not having any pipe coming out of the floor so you can hoover a bit better is a good un. if i ever get round to building my own home i will remember that one.

plus he is having a new combi put in replacing the old tank and cylinder. instead of using the 22mm copper pipe system he is putting in brand new plastic 22mm. its all free from a mate though so he is lucky there, but his house is in a right pickle.

 

[namsag]

Not that picky if he is using plastic , but thats a whole new argument.
Ding Ding round 2.