3kw Oven - 13amp fuse?

[Outoftime]

Another oven issue, I'm afraid.

Have just replaced single oven (hob is gas and separate). Previous oven came with its own cable and plugged into socket on 30amp circuit. Instructions on new 3kw oven requires min 15A max 20A fuse and 3mm double pole switch.

I guess that it would be foolish simply to fix a 13A plug and plug it in - but wanted to check here before calling in the electrician.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

3kW is 13A, and therefore OK to plug in.

If you have a cooker circuit you might prefer to wire it into that, and have the cooker control unit as the isolation control, in which case you should replace the MCB on that circuit with a 15/20A one, but if the load really is only 3kW you don't need to.

What are the precise figures for power, and at what voltage(s) printed in the specifications/installation instructions?

 

[Outoftime]

Thanks a lot.

3kw is the only power figure mentioned - the installation instructions are basic. 3kw is mentioned on the info chart on inside of oven. 230-240V~(50hz).

Other than a reference to 2.5mm2 cable flex, that's all it says anywhere.

They really don't want people doing this themselves! Thanks.

 

[Big_Spark]

Outof time, measure the voltage at your supply, it is likely that the supply will be around 238V.

Currently most electrical appliances in the UK are calculated on 240V, even though they may be plated at 230V. This can be crucial though on resistive equipment such as cookers.

Example.

3000W / 220V = 13.63A

3000W / 230V = 13.04A

3000W / 240V = 12.5A

3000W / 238.6V = 12.57A (Average of UK supply votage)

This is why your supply voltage is critical as it makes a difference to the current drawn from the supply.

3000W / 250V = 12A

 

[ban-all-sheds]

OTOH, appliance rated at 3kW @ 230V. Ignoring temperature coefficients:

240V supply = 13.61A

250V supply = 14.18A

 

[Big_Spark]

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[plugwash]

seriously you should be ok on a 13A plug an extra amp or so shouldn't make any real difference especially when you consider you won't be running it 24/7

btw i think supply voltage varies quite a bit by region. at our house the voltage seems consistantly just under 250V (which is still in spec)

 

[Outoftime]

Thanks all.

Will test the voltage and go from there.

 

[mapj1]

I don't think you need to bother overmuch.
A 13a plug top fuse will carry 13A all day, but it doesn't suddenly pop its clogs at 13.1A.
see these data sheets

http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/55950.pdf
for curves of the maximum and minimum permitted over current versus time to blow for plug fuses.
Bussmann specify all their plug-top cartridge (BS1362) fuses (the TDC180 range ) to dissipate 1 watt or less at full load, irrespective of rating, and to hold for a minimum of 30 minutes at 1.6 times rated current, and to blow within 30 minutes at 1.9 times rated current.
I guess at 1.6 times current, i.e. almost 20A or so, sockets and cables may heat up quite noticabley in the 30 minutes before things go ping !
However, a concern over 13A versus even 15A is academic, the fuse will not blow.
I would however make sure that any socket used is not an end of spur, and that any plug has nice clean pins, to avoid overheating risk.