9 wire plugs and the yellow peril - can u help?

Is that true? your final pic, with the ruler (which I assume is box 1) seems to show the cable on the left as about 7mm and the one on the right as about 10mm.
I think box 3 is the close up photograph - the scars on the sheath seem to match.
Yes, it looks as if you were right. Thanks. I was put off by the fact that the middle cable is so difficult (impossible?) to see in that close up that I assumed it had to be the one with only two cables. I guess the apparent difference is size is probably just because of different orientation.

Kind Regards, John
 
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Indeed - either a 2-gang light switch (one being two-way) or a single 2-way light switch plus a power feed. However, if our assumptions are correct, I can't really see what (practical) "certain alterations" could be made to allow one to to connect a socket to either of those cables. Am I missing something?
As I said the oddity is that the installer seems to have brought the ring final cables up and down for both box 2 and 3.
Box 3 appears to be dead and not used.
So I would bring the ring final cable down to box 3 take it horizontally across to box 2 and then box 1 and up.
My concern is that if this is ring final circuit we may have a bridge situation with the ring.
Which is why I and indeed others have said that testing the circuit is so important.
 
As I said the oddity is that the installer seems to have brought the ring final cables up and down for both box 2 and 3.
Indeed so. This really needs investigating.
Box 3 appears to be dead and not used.
I presume you mean Box 1. Yes, that's what the OP's test suggests (although we don't know the nature of the 'voltage detector' he used), but this needs to be confirmed.
So I would bring the ring final cable down to box 3 take it horizontally across to box 2 and then box 1 and up.
If one were doing it from scratch, certainly. However, given what already exists, it would seem unnecessarily meddlesome. If one really wanted to use the Box 1 backbox (but that would still require doing something about the existing cables to it) for a third single socket, one could simply move one the existing feeds to box 2 to box 1, and then link boxes 1 & 2.
My concern is that if this is ring final circuit we may have a bridge situation with the ring.
That is indeed possible, and needs investigating. However, simply connecting sockets to boxes 2 and 3 would presumably make things 'no worse than they currently are'.
Which is why I and indeed others have said that testing the circuit is so important.
Indeed so. It really would be highly desirable to ascertain exactly what is going on. In addition to what you mention, another 'bad' theoretical possibility is that one or both of boxes 2 and 3 may once have had an FCU, rather than a socket, with the 'spur' now just being connected to the circuit without any fuse.

Kind Regards, John
 
Is that true? your final pic, with the ruler (which I assume is box 1) seems to show the cable on the left as about 7mm and the one on the right as about 10mm.

I think box 3 is the close up photograph - the scars on the sheath seem to match.

This is correct, box 3. The "7mm" wire is angled slightly giving the illusion of being 7mm.
 
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This is correct, box 3. The "7mm" wire is angled slightly giving the illusion of being 7mm.
Yes, I realise that now - as I said, it was the 'invisible' middle cable that confused me! However, this doesn't alter anything else I said before.

Kind Regards, John
 
No, sorry John, You just beat me in posting time, I wasn't dismissing the above.

Thank you both for your replies.

The detector I used was a good quality screwdriver type device good to 10,000V. I have a voltmeter if this would be better?

The wires definitely all go back up the wall, you all find this strange so just to confirm it is the case. I am reluctant to rip up the flooring upstairs if possibly avoided.

It is sounding like boxes 2 and 3 can be turned into working sockets, but box 1 needs to be investigated by a qualified person?

I am considering leaving box 1 blanked off and using boxes 2 & 3, is this foolhardiness? I don't want to take the easier route per se, but if I can get a couple of working sockets here, or even turn the singles into doubles, then I would be happy with that.

Should I consider installing a fused switch before these sockets, leaving it permanently on, therefore providing fuse protection?
 
I take it this is a kitchen? Could the two on the right have been isolators for sockets for appliances?

And are there other light switches in the room to explain the first box? Could the first box have been used to control under unit lighting?
 
It is sounding like boxes 2 and 3 can be turned into working sockets, but box 1 needs to be investigated by a qualified person?
Definitely. We cannot tell from here.

I am considering leaving box 1 blanked off and using boxes 2 & 3, is this foolhardiness?
No one can tell.

I don't want to take the easier route per se, but if I can get a couple of working sockets here, or even turn the singles into doubles, then I would be happy with that.
You have three cables to each box.
Neither we nor you know which is what.

Should I consider installing a fused switch before these sockets, leaving it permanently on, therefore providing fuse protection?
You cannot put anything 'before' on a ring.

How will you know where 'before' is?
 
Hi, this is a kitchen but I can't give a definite answer on if they powered appliances. The kitchen as it is now was put in 10 years ago by the previous owner. Prior to that maybe appliance were rigged here but the 45A cooker wiring and fused socket for the extractor are on a different wall. The extractor has a hole through this wall to the outside but all this could have been put in 10 years ago, moved from the wall with these 3 boxes on.

I think it is two normal wall sockets and a switch that powered now removed under cabinet lighting. But I am just guessing.

Three is a light switch at the entrance to the room. It has 3 switches, one for the hall lights (room prior to kitchen), one for the kitchen ceiling lights, and one for the existing under cabinet lights that are on different walls to the wall with these 3 boxes. The wiring for these existing cab lights also trails from the ceiling down the wall to a junction box, the wire is hidden behind plaster board and the junction box mounts on the underside of a wall cab.

Flicking these light switches do not affect any of the 3 boxes in question.

Thanks for your help, hopefully that all makes sense.
 
The detector I used was a good quality screwdriver type device good to 10,000V. I have a voltmeter if this would be better?
Neon screwdrivers can be unreliable. A voltmeter would certainly be better, but you need to be very careful in using it to test live circuits.
The wires definitely all go back up the wall, you all find this strange so just to confirm it is the case. I am reluctant to rip up the flooring upstairs if possibly avoided.
Yes, it's certainly odd, since (assuming they really are both on the same ring) they could have just linked boxes 2 and 3 together and avoided two of those drops from above. Hence the uncertainties about 'what is going on'.
It is sounding like boxes 2 and 3 can be turned into working sockets, but box 1 needs to be investigated by a qualified person?
To be frank, boxes 2 and 3 (or, more correctly, the whole arrangement of this sockets circuit) really needs to be investigated by a qualified person as well. I'm sure that sockets connected to those cables would 'work', but the uncertainties and oddities are such that you really should seek reassurance that there are not 'funny'/dodgy things about how that whole circuit has been wired.
I am considering leaving box 1 blanked off and using boxes 2 & 3, is this foolhardiness? I don't want to take the easier route per se, but if I can get a couple of working sockets here, or even turn the singles into doubles, then I would be happy with that.
Simply leaving box 1 'as is', with a blank plate over it, is certainly an option.
Should I consider installing a fused switch before these sockets, leaving it permanently on, therefore providing fuse protection?
Not really - and, in any event, with the information you have you wouldn't know where to connect the FCU. You need to find out how that circuit is wired, and the chances are that the investigation will confirm that it's OK to just install the sockets.

Kind Regards, John
 
Thanks EFL. So you're saying this is one for the pros.

A bit disheartening as I thought a simple face plate change and wire but I seem to have uncovered an unknown element.

Sorry i cant give better details of the problem but thanks for your help. Also see what you mean about the ring, obvious now.
 
Thanks again John.

I will keep reading up on it and trying to find more details, even if its only to provide a professional with more information.

Everyone has been very helpful and I do appreciate your time sO far.

Cheers.
 

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