98 Peugeot Boxer Outer CV Boots Splitting

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Hi guys, my boxer is getting through outer cv boots at an unsustainable rate! Is this a common problem with these vans? I'm fitting them correctly, it's difficult not to, but I haven't been using Peugeot ones. I've got two split ones now which aren't even two years old. Will genuine ones perform better?
 
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The manufactures ones or good pattern parts are OK but some cheapies dont last. The only other reason for them to fail is if the suspension is at the wrong height although it wold have to be some way out.

Peter
 
+1.....the dealer ones are usually better. Inferior ones split within the corrugations.
Are you using a cone to fit them, or splitting the driveshaft?
John :)
 
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Thanks chaps, been offline for a few days, thanks for the comments. They're not the gluing ones, and haven't been fitted with cones, they've been done with new joints at the same time, the last time was both sides done while the gearbox was out for a clutch, and the shafts were on the bench. I didn't use dealer ones, but I wouldn't expect patterns to fail so quickly, especially as great care was taken to seat them in the shaft and joint housing grooves with no twisting. Bit of a nuisance really, I suppose I'll have to try some genuine ones and see how long they last, they are quite different to look at. Thanks again.
 
Ok guys, opinions on this one please! Thought I better sort these out before the onset of the salty winter so I thought I'd bite the bullet and get genuine Peugeot ones. So off to the dealer and Ouch! £48.00 for the kit ie, two outer boots, 4 packs of grease, and 4 lube packs which I assume are for the cone system which I haven't got. Plus the 4 clips. Anyway, getting them home and I see they are not Peugeot factory parts at all, but a kit made by Mecatech. ie, this outfit. I can't find a price online without opening an account so have I been ripped off? It certainly feels like it....:confused:
 
For sure thats a genuine dealer price, right enough......however, not every part is made by Peugeot themselves.
Example - Valeo alternators and radiators, Sogefi filters, Marelli ignitions and so on.
How are you going to fit those....is it driveshafts out and split, or use the cone system?
John :)
 
Hi John, thanks for response, I had a quick word with the parts guy in the Peugeot Dealers, he assures me they are approved by Peugeot and the price is right. So I'll have to wear that I suppose, as long as they don't split in ten minutes. I'll be getting the shafts on to the shop bench and splitting them and give them a good clean out. I haven't used the cone method before and haven't got the tool for it, although it looks like these boots are designed for such a method. Should be straightforward enough, I've done it on this old van a few times now - hopefully this will be the last. :D
 
It's certainly true that most "genuine" manufacturers parts are not made by the manufacturer themselves, but I'm surprised they didn't come in a Peugeot / Citroen "piece d'origine" box? That's very unusual. I have a mate who used to work for a big aftermarket supplier of balljoints. People often say "these guys supply the factory, so why buy genuine stuff"? It's a fair question, but a balljoint (or indeed any) part manufacturer can make the same part to different specifications - depending on what the customer will pay. In the case of balljoints, they would produce the parts (ball stud, forged housing, plastic liner etc) and like any mass production process, they'd end up with a range of parts that were spot-on in the middle of all the permitted tolerances. These would be made up into balljoints and sent to the manufacturer for use on the production line. You'd then get components that were "only just" within spec - which would often be acceptable to the customer (in this case Peugeot) as "genuine spares". There would be some that fell just outside the permitted tolerances on the drawings. These would go into the balljoint manufacturer's "own brand" packaging as aftermarket replacements. Clearly, the manufacture has a name to protect so there's a limit to the quality of parts he'd permit in his own packaging. And so it would go on, with parts that were further out of spec being sold to "no-name" plane packaging aftermarket parts suppliers, until you got to ones that were obviously and visibly scrap - which would go in the scrap bin.

So just because (say) TRW are an OE supplier to (say) Fiat, it doesn't mean that the replacement part sold in the TRW bag will be the same quality as the one Fiat used - but it's likely to be virtually as good and MIGHT be as good.
 
Bugg@r! Just doing the second side of this job and I've broken the snap ring. Can't get one anywhere over the counter, so now waiting for an ebay delivery, what a pain. Bit too brutal 'tapping' the joint back onto the shaft, although I remember this ring being a tight one when I originally fitted it. Not too happy with the price for the boot kit either, it's clearly a universal one rather than a specific Boxer part as the boots have to be cut down on the large end to fit. But they do seem better than the ones that came with the new joints, much more supple and under less stress on full lock, so I'll see how they get on.

As an aside, I've stripped down and rebuilt the joints to make sure there's no crud in there from the split boots. Obviously I'll have to strip down this one again as there's now a piece of snap ring floating around in the grease somewhere. But although I've fitted loads of new cv joints, I've never dismantled one before. Aren't they amazing! Beautiful in their simplicity, hats off to Mr Rzeppa! But can the cage be fitted in two positions? I'm sure these have gone back together as they came out, but the machining on each side of the cage is very slightly different, and one side is actually opposite to how the other one was. From what I can see, it won't make a difference which way the cage goes in, bearing in mind these joints are quite new and there is no visible wear.
 
I think it DOES make a difference. Years ago, as an engineering placement student, one of the engineers in the office took a CV joint (a new one with no grease in it) flipped the inner cage round until al lthe balls fell out, and then gave us the handful of bits to reassemble. Certainly THAT one would only go back together one way, but there may be other designs. Took us ages to figure out why it wasn't going back together! When we'd done it, he said it was amazing watching a production line of (mainly women) just grabbing handfulls of the right bits and slapping them together in a few seconds each - while chatting to each other!
 
I hope I'm right with this one then! It certainly reassembled with ease, and does so with the cage in either position. Obviously the inner race (spider?) can only go one way, but this one seems to be ok as I've done it, it's turning in all directions with no play. Thanks for your input.

Eta - I might get some photos up later to show the small differences in the sides.....
 
Ok, here's some photos which hopefully show the slight differences in the cage sides. The first two are assembled in both ways, minus the balls of course, the second two show the slight chamfer on one side. I think they are ok either way personally. :)

DSCF7182.JPG DSCF7184.JPG DSCF7185.JPG DSCF7186.JPG
 
Took a while, but I see what you mean now!
How do they feel with the balls in? As its on the inside, I cant see it being an issue.
John :)
 
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