A better/easier way to re-pipe rads?

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So the missus is on a redecorating mission. She went out last weekend to buy paint and skirting/attractive and came back with new designer flat panel rads and chrome angled trv's.

The existing rad pipe work is all 10mm microbore and buried in the wall. The pipe work comes out of the wall on elbows into a 15mm straight valve with reducer. To make matters i will need to adjust the pipework to accommodate each of the new rads.

Yesterday I decided to make a start by replacing one of the smaller rads in the hall. I drained the system, knocked a hole in the plaster board and chopped the pipes. I then used JG speed fit parts (10>15mm reducer and 15mm elbows) to position the pipes as needed. I later discovered the JG connectors were slightly too bulky to fit between the internal breeze block wall and the plaster board. In the end i had to chisel a little a way from the internal wall so that i could push back the elbows/reducers enough for them to fit. What i expected to take an hour tops took me the best part of 4 hours.

I dont fancy having to repeat the above for the other 6 rads so i was think of using 10>15mm reducers and flexi-hoses with 15mm tap connectors? These should fit behind the wall without the need of chiselling. I know it probably not the more cost effective option but surely it would be quicker.

What do the pro's suggest? I'm sure there must be a better/simpler way to do this.

PS - the subfloor is concrete otherwise i'd have took the pipes under and backup through the floorboards.
 
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copper pipes and soldered joints . less obtrusive ,take less space ,look neatest and less likely to leak .
 
Soldered joints are probably beyond make capabilities. Any suggestions that doesn't include soldering?
 
is your pipework copper ? if so look at "Tectite " slimline copper push fit range ( screw fix stock them ). the fittings are much smaller and neater looking than the big plastic stuff.biggest drawback is you can not de mount them, once fitted they stay fitted !
 
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Don't use flexi pipes, they're not designed for that application.

10mm push fit coupler, some new lengths of 10mm half hard copper that can be bent by hand or using a former for tight bends and 15mm to 10mm internal snap reducers in the valves. Or even better get her to take the valves back and replace them for 10mm valves.
 
Those Tectile parts look handy and certainly less bulky. Can they be used with plastic piping?
Which would be easier/quicker, Tectile or 10mm half hard copper and couplers.
Has anyone used these before, are they any good and how flexible are they?
21mOd3HGmnL._SX300_.jpg


Nortonj, not sure these pics will help but heres a photo of an old rad & valves and another of the pipework i've already adjusted.

Original
IMG_0157.JPG


adjusted using plastic (wall still needs skimming).
IMG_0156.JPG
 
With the plastic fitting in the last photo, make sure it's either locked or a collet clip fitted, some fittings have been known to release with movement (expansion / contraction) pressing on the plaster.
 
try speedfit fitting and pipe.The fittings are smaller and have none of that twist to lock/unlock caper of JG
 
yes sorry...not had my coffee yet...have found hep much better to work with,and stem fittings save lots of room in tight corners too.
 

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